Slither build in GA

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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kens
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by kens »

sshamilt@gmail.com wrote:
Sat Mar 27, 2021 7:35 am
Assuming that my clamping and boiling water work over the next day or so, I will be ready to start fairing. It seems like a lot of people are not putting in the battens until the keel and chine are done. Is this the best way or am I missing something? It seems to me that the battens would help not over fairing the keel. On the other hand I could stand closer to the keel if the battens are not in. What advice would you all give in this area?
The best way is whatever works for you.
Many of us have done it many different ways. Pick the way to do it you like.
As long as you follow the fundamental process, there is more than one way to skin a cat (so to speak)
Your build is looking good.
As for the side stick on the planer, I did that too, but on a hand plane.
I also did a long guide stick out forward. you eventually need that guide stick both ways, to sides, and forward.
Personnally, I do not recommend power planer for fairing, it is far too easy to remove too much, and then you are screwed.
Fairing process is a process that reveals the sweet flowing lines of your work.
The better/accurate your fairing right now, the less smoothing filler you need later (in the paint process)
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)

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sshamilt@gmail.com
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

I hear you on the power plane. I only plan to use it to get close. I scribed a line that represents the intersection of the frame and keel which give me a lowest possible depth

as far as the battens I think I'm going to take them out so I can stand inside the frame save my back some. the long stick gives me a good angle for the chine so that's okay and then I use a hand plane on the chine itself
Steve

Long time woodworker, first time boat builder

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kens
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by kens »

My own belief is that battens should be in, and you fair from keel, to next batten, and to next batten, and next batten, and so on to chine.
I have not built the same plans as yours, but I doubt there is a straight line from keel to chine, (with battens in between)
Is there not a curve in there, a section of a cone?
you fair this in segments, as in segments of a cone, no?
or segments of a curve?
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)

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sshamilt@gmail.com
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

For the Slither the first three frames are straight. Frame four introduces a very slight curve. So from three forward is where the cones start. Aft of three the two sides of the bottom are flat
Steve

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chugalug
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by chugalug »

Good for zipping around in creeks I think.Not a rough water boat unless you want to be a few inches shorter :lol:
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


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chugalug
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by chugalug »

The missus took a pic of me-sleeping at the wheel on"Chug" could have had a 1/2 hour nap before I got into trouble(unless I ran over a floating log) :D
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


"If it's not crooked,It's not mine

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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

That's the plan. Fishing and joy riding on the lakes. Maybe pull a float.
Right now though I gotta fix the starboard chine. I made a mistake and put the scarf joint in the curve. It came loose last night. Looks like it was glue starved though I slather the epoxy pretty liberally. I suspect the creative clamping of the battens was too much for it. But... Better now than later.
16169417417743396494616253445293.jpg
Steve

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by Bill Edmundson »

Easy to fix now. I was putting the outside veneer on the Tahoe. there was a sudden load POP! :shock: I don't want it was and I've never found it!

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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chugalug
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by chugalug »

:D I've had trouble with the epoxy mix before.Don't mix enough or too little hardener maybe too much.I didn't use scale just mixing cups with marks on.I like the slow stuff not the fast but each has its merits I guess.When I bent the bow end of the battens on"Chug",I drilled little hole in end and using wire tied down to frame.maybe free up your clamp. :roll:
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


"If it's not crooked,It's not mine

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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Good minds think alike. Just switched the clamps for straps. Thinking also that when that chine is dry I will sister on a backer board, maybe a quarter inch thick
Steve

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kens
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by kens »

if you use heavy clamping pressure and squeeze out the epoxy, you get a weak joint.
epoxy doesn't like overly heavy clamping pressure
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)

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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

That's what I've been reading. I wish I had read more before I started. I probably should have been using thickened epoxy but I'm using regular unthickened epoxy. Maybe part of my Gap problem. I do plan to back up that scarf joint with a scrap of quarter inch screwed and glued. That should keep it from popping again.
Steve

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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Using a line from stem to stern I found that my sheer was out nearly 1/4 inch on both sides. From frame three to the transom one one side and frame 1 to the transom on the other. Luckily I had ripped to many laminates so I had the laminates to glue on. Glad I found it now
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Seems that using the Rabl method, my chine from frame 4 to stem does not have enough curve. In the current configuration the side skin would go from convex to concave.
Looks like a thick chine in the front is going to be the order of the day.
Steve

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chugalug
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by chugalug »

Probably won't show anyway.On my boat,I figured if the glue doesn't hold it together,all the screws will.coarse not much pounding at 5mph. Smoking down those rivers and lakes :lol: Thought about putting seat belts in to keep me upright and not hurt my head when I fell asleep at the wheel.But I used all the old ones for tie straps for side curtains. :D
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


"If it's not crooked,It's not mine

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