Slither build in GA

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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sshamilt@gmail.com
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Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

I am in the process of fitting the first chine on my Slither build. From the transom to frame 3 I have a solid square fit. When I cut and fit for frame 4 is was a large angle but it is still a good fit and fairing well.

The bend to frame 5 is the challenge. I have a good square fit but it requires a twist that pulls the chine out of square with all the other frames and transom. In addition it looks like the chine will meet the stem about 5 inches below the breasthook.

Please look at the pictures and let me know if this is correct.
Attachments
The angle of the cut on number 4.
The angle of the cut on number 4.
Chine and stem. Note the closeness to the bh.
Chine and stem. Note the closeness to the bh.
Overall appearance.
Overall appearance.
Last edited by sshamilt@gmail.com on Sat Mar 20, 2021 8:39 am, edited 1 time in total.
Steve

Long time woodworker, first time boat builder

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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Here are more pictures
Attachments
The typical gap opened up on frames 1-3 from twisting the chine into number 5
The typical gap opened up on frames 1-3 from twisting the chine into number 5
The fit at number 5
The fit at number 5
The chine in the notch at number 4
The chine in the notch at number 4
Steve

Long time woodworker, first time boat builder

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chugalug
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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by chugalug »

I laminated my chines on"Chug" .In some joints could add shim in back to bring it out so frame doesn't contact ply but chines will(when faired to fit.Sent a pic of intended joint at bow.Stem needs to be faired a little so chine can be screwed to stem and ply lays flat across all.
IMG_1652.JPG
I put a little wood block behind chine so had more to fasten to.
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Thank you for the reply. Yeah I know I have to set the chinein back so that I can Fair the stem I was more concerned that I may be too high on the stem but that's just where it lays in. Some morem prying and clamping in the back brought the Chine into the groove better. Hopefully the epoxy and the screws will hold it. I'm debating whether to wrap it in towels and use hot water.
Steve

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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Thank you for the reply. Yeah I know I have to set the chinein back so that I can Fair the stem I was more concerned that I may be too high on the stem but that's just where it lays in. Some morem prying and clamping in the back brought the Chine into the groove better. Hopefully the epoxy and the screws will hold it. I'm debating whether to wrap it in towels and use hot water.
Steve

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chugalug
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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by chugalug »

If you look at pic of "Slither" on design plan ,the little white line looks like the chine line.You're building a speed boat."Chug "is a tug :D
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

I saw that also. But I cannot visualize the bottom and sides in the front. there will be little to no angle between them.
I just poured got water over towels on the chine to"steam" the twist. I will let you know haw that goes.
Steve

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kens
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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by kens »

Hi,
I also looked at slither webpage, yes, the chine does look like it is high on the stem.
I hesitated a bit before I chimed in, I'll post this bullet points from empirical data of my own build and reading others
. your chine notch on #4 looks spot on, assuming all rest are correct as well
.it looks like you are using Sapele, correct? If that is a Sapele at about 1 x 2" that is gonna be one stiff stick!
. yes there is some twisting going on as the chines/sheers go forward, you gotta put some oomph into that
.the chines are not defined on plans as to the exact location to land on the stem (no plans that I know of)
.land the chine log in the frame's notches per the plans,,,then accept the landing on the stem best you can
.if you still having hard time, then steam it, or, laminate it
. you can clamp it, or, start screws into it, and tighten it up until you afraid it will blow up, then get away, let it rest for a day, and go turn the screws 1 more turn, you may force it into submission
. a Spanish windlass is helpful to pull these things around, let them rest day or 2, and get back at it
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)

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kens
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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by kens »

sshamilt@gmail.com wrote:
Sun Feb 21, 2021 2:34 pm
I saw that also. But I cannot visualize the bottom and sides in the front. there will be little to no angle between them.
I just poured got water over towels on the chine to"steam" the twist. I will let you know haw that goes.
Oh, there is a 'transition joint' that happens. you can search it on the forum or in the plywood book. I have a picture of it on my own build page.
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)

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chugalug
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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by chugalug »

Those bottom battons might be a blast as well(when you get that far).I kerfed mine 15 or so inches on the front and bending down and wired to build form.after ply is screwed down.release the front of the battens after appling glue.otherwise your going to be fighting those when putting ply on. :D
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Thanks for all the confirmations.
I have the battens cut and frames notched and you are correct. They are going to be interesting.
Based on the pictures I will assume the chine stem location is right.
The shear is going to be lamination. I cut those today.
I have got wet towels on that chine. I will leave it for a couple of days. If it works then I will do the other the same say. If not them I will laminate it
Thanks everyone
Steve

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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Well the towels seem to do the trick. Except.
When I unwrapped the following day the forward section was limp. I thought the chine had snapped. It didnt. Seems I wasn't paying attention to where the scarf joints were and put one in the final stretch of the curve. The glue failed. I either starved it or did not mix it right. Now I am attempting to glue a 4 ft straight piece to a 16 ft curved piece.
Steve

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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Well It took some twisting to get the front of the Chine in place but they are there. I did end up with using a windlass of sorts. I did not get a picture but a clamp on the chine about half way between the stem and frame 5 with a 2x4 under the bar to hold the twist and using a strap clamp to pull the chine to the stem worked. I was able to cut the chine by flush cutting along the stem. I had repeat this 2-3 times to get the chine low enough for the fairing.
0301211913a.jpg
The result after doing both sides looks pretty fair to me.
0303211826a.jpg
0303211832.jpg
The chines are not glued in yet, just screwed.
Steve

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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Next I moved to the sheers. These are going to be 3/8" laminates at 8' each part. I have already scarfed the parts and are ready to go. I notched the frames and placed the first 16 footer in place using a band clamp at the front.
0306211354b.jpg
0306211355.jpg
The result looks like a good curve in the front and straight along the sides just like I would think.
Steve

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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

There may be a problem at the front. The previous posts show the chine and the first laminate of the sheer in place. The chines are fit so that they are in the same plane as the frame sides. The bottom of the chines will be faired along with the keel to create the flat bottom. When I place a straight board from the chine to the sheer, it looks good on the sides.
0306211352.jpg
It is a little hard to see but at the sheer it should fair nicely.
However at the stem the straight line falls inside the sheer. In fact, the straight edge will go from the sheer to the stem and not touch the chine.
0306211354a.jpg
I did not take a picture but the chine to stem looks good and the handy notched plywood gauge shows the chine set back should be fine. But the chine to sheer in the front section is not going to make it. If I were to attempt to skin the front at this time, the bottom planking would probably go on correctly but the side plank would go from curved out to curved in which cannot be done with plywood.
Note that the chine from frame five to the stem is nearly a straight line and not a large curve.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Steve

Long time woodworker, first time boat builder

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