Slither build in GA

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by DrBryanJ »

It is hard to tell in your photo, but when using the Rabl? method of fairing your straight board has run proportionately along the sheer and chine. So from 1/2 the chine to 1/2 the sheer between last frame and stem, 1/4 of the way from frame along chine and 1/4 from frame on sheer. Things can look very off when not checked that way.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by DrBryanJ »

Your other problem might be your breast hook position. I remember you had a question about placement. If placed too far forward the sheer with not have enough bend and could cause your issue. I'd like to see a picture of where it is.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."
We're still happily married, but now she just wants "the dam boat out of the garage."

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sshamilt@gmail.com
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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Hey Bryan
Here are some pictures of where the Breasthook ended up
0306211827b.jpg
0306211827.jpg
0306211827a.jpg
Steve

Long time woodworker, first time boat builder

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by DrBryanJ »

I think it is too forward. I think the line you have drawn on the forward extension should end at the very tip so when you fair the stem it makes a smooth transition at the way to the tip of the breast hook. It doesn't look like much, but it might be enough to correct the issue you are having
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."
We're still happily married, but now she just wants "the dam boat out of the garage."

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sshamilt@gmail.com
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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

If it is then I need to change it by about an inch which will improve the sheer to chine lines.
The bh has been glues and screwed so just moving it is not possible.
Adding material to the stem would be one option. But that would also mean moving the chine up which makes the current one two short
The other would be to cut the forward edge of the bh back an inch.
I am leaning to the second option
Thoughts?
Steve

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by DrBryanJ »

I would cut back what you have. The point is easy, the curve that the sheer attaches to may be more difficult. I would make a cardboard templet of the curve to get it right.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."
We're still happily married, but now she just wants "the dam boat out of the garage."

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Re: Fitting chine on the Slither

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

The difference in the stem to bh was a half inch. I cut it back a half inch and retrimmed frame 5 and it looks better. I am going to have to add some material to the chine to get a flat surface for the skin but it should work out now
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

I have the starboard sheer glued in and the second laminate of the port side drying.
IMG_20210320_111657326_HDR.jpg
IMG_20210320_111710356_HDR.jpg
While waiting for the glue up to dry I am looking at the battens. The plan view shows the outboard batten ending between frames 4 and 5 with the inboard batten between 5 and stem. To me this is a bit long when viewed from above and considering the hard point that will be created when bent.
IMG_20210320_111710356_HDR.jpg
Frame 4 is at the top and 5 in the middle. The outboard batten would extend about 10 inches beyond frame 4 and the inboard batten about 7 inches beyond frame 5. Seems like it would be better to end 4 or 5 inches before the respective frames rather than force a bend on that short of a overhang.
What have others done here?
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Steve

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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Bouncing this question. I am ready to cut the battens to length and fix them into place but not sure where to cut
Steve

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kens
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by kens »

Make them as long as possible, and go as far forward as you can, and still get them to lay down correct
Some have used steam bending, (I did), some have put in a saw kerf to allow them to curve, some have laminated, some have faired thickness from the forward end to get them long, (I did that too)
The short answer is, 'as long as possible'

here a link to a old newsletter on me steaming battens:
https://www.glen-l.com/weblettr/weblett ... l#shoptalk
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)

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sshamilt@gmail.com
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

It is amazing what a good strap and creative clamping with some boiling water can do
1616796632636167014687334216497.jpg
Steve

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kens
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by kens »

"creative clamping",,,,,,that's a good way to describe it !!
Oak..........the juice ain't worth the squeeze :D :shock: :o :)

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sshamilt@gmail.com
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

Assuming that my clamping and boiling water work over the next day or so, I will be ready to start fairing. It seems like a lot of people are not putting in the battens until the keel and chine are done. Is this the best way or am I missing something? It seems to me that the battens would help not over fairing the keel. On the other hand I could stand closer to the keel if the battens are not in. What advice would you all give in this area?
Steve

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by Bill Edmundson »

Steve

I see reasons to do it both ways. I did keel, chine, shear, then battens. I had the deck beams and dummy beams bolted in and to the form.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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Re: Slither build in GA

Post by sshamilt@gmail.com »

I was just about to write. I just started planing the keel with a bar on the electric planer going to the chine and I realized that the battens need to be out or I can't reach the keel properly. The boat is just too wide.

I followed Rational Root and put a bar on the planer. It seems to work well.
http://davesboat.blogspot.com/2009/04/d ... s.html?m=1
16168691309365911900253915864256.jpg
Steve

Long time woodworker, first time boat builder

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