Glen-L 15 build

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HBlom
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Glen-L 15 build

Post by HBlom »

Hello folks. Less than a week into a Glen-L 15 build. Got the patterns mostly transferred to plywood this weekend. Found that an awl worked very well for this. Quite a confusing mess of lines, and maybe I didn't have to transfer some of the elements of frames 2 and 3 to the plywood, but they are there now. Starting to think about transferring the plans to actual lumber to start building the frames. Would like to use Philippine mahogany as recommended, which I believe is the same as Meranti (but maybe I have that wrong). A lumber yard in my area sells African Mahogany and Genuine Mahogany - not sure if these are all interchangeable or not. I am sure this question has been asked before, but what is the difference between all these mahogany's?
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Henk Blom
Mundelein, IL

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by Bill Edmundson »

I use African and was happy with it.

Bill
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JimmY
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by JimmY »

African - Usually cheaper, light, good for frames and planking. Typically lots of internal stress if you are cutting it down (read warps).
Genuine (Honduras or Phillipines?) - More expensive, I like the grain pattern better than African, so I would recommend for decks and planking.
Sapele - Price similar to African, pronounced grain pattern, cuts and machines well, good for frames (I used this on my Squirt), people have used it for decks and planking (but grain pattern is a little too wild for me in large doses).

All are suitable for framing, battens, sheer, and chine.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

neel thompson
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by neel thompson »

I'm with Bill..... African Mahogany

HBlom
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by HBlom »

Thanks all. Appreciate the guidance. African mahogany it is!
Henk Blom
Mundelein, IL

HBlom
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by HBlom »

Starting to think about building the frames, and I think what I will do is make patterns with 1/4" MDF, and get those as close to perfect as I can. Then I will use those as templates for the actual frames, which I will cut slightly oversized, and then trim to the MDF pattern with a router. I assume I am not the first person to try that in boat building, correct? Any gotcha's I should be aware of if I go this route?
Henk Blom
Mundelein, IL

neel thompson
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by neel thompson »

That is exactly how I did it except I used 3/8" plywood for the templates. I attached the templates to the mahogany with two sided carpet tape and it worked great. You can see the process I used if you look at my build thread ( "Neel's Palm Beach 22 build" ). Best of luck with your build,, Neel

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by DrBryanJ »

I did exactly that with 1/4 mdf. I didn't trust the two sided tape, I screwed my templates to the frames.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."
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JimmY
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by JimmY »

Just make sure they are symmetrical left/right. Pick one side of the plans, and mirror it.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

HBlom
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by HBlom »

Symmetry is important, for sure. My thought was to rough cut the two frames slightly oversize, double-stick tape them together, and then double-stick tape the template to the top of one of them. This way I am only making half the templates. And for the gussets I could probably stick all 4 together. Might needs screws for that though. We'll see.

Another question...I assume the frame members that cross the center line are actually one continuous piece, not two pieces that are then joined at the centerline with a floor timber or a gusset. So for frame 1, both the floor timber and the bottom side frame member are one longer piece that cross the center line.

Thanks for all the input, folks.
Henk Blom
Mundelein, IL

TomB
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by TomB »

Templating with double stick tape works great. I cut gussets a little oversized, four the same on the three straight inside edges. Then used a templating bit bearing on the finished frames to get the two outside edges.

I suspect you have a three piece floor timber, one piece chine to centerline each side and a timber gusset to stiffen the frame across the keel. To confirm, look at the small scale framing drawing, there is probably a note that says something like "Join the two floor framing members at the centerline with..."

Tom
In the home stretch on a Tahoe 23

JimmY
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by JimmY »

Typically the bottom piece of a frame is one piece from side to side. On a sailboat, I imagine any frame around the center board is in two pieces.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

HBlom
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by HBlom »

Thanks all. Around the center board it is certainly two pieces, and from what I can tell on the other frames it is one piece. And I am guessing that rather than come to an acute angle in the center (as the plans show), a bit of a radius might be stronger. Nothing drastic - less than an inch. But maybe there is a reason for the acute angle that I am missing. I know it will be reinforced with gussets or floor timbers, so maybe it makes no difference.
Henk Blom
Mundelein, IL

JimmY
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by JimmY »

You will have two pieces of plywood coming together at the center. You will not be able to bend them down to meet at that radius. Leave the point.

You can radius the plywood after it is installed if you want, and that will help the fiberglass cloth lay down better.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

HBlom
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Re: Glen-L 15 build

Post by HBlom »

Sorry. I meant on the inside, not on the outside. I understand your point about the plywood in the outside.
Henk Blom
Mundelein, IL

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