If you go with this method it is also a good idea to sand the surface to get a mechanical bond.
Bill
Squirt Fiberglassing Question
Moderator: ttownshaw
- Bill Edmundson
- Posts: 12036
- Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
- Contact:
Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build
Tahoe 19 Build
Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question
when you say you did one section at a time did you fully complete each section separate from one another or did you do the first coat on btm then once dry did the side and so forth and then do the stages all as one once the bond coat has been applied and glass has been stuck ?
- rbrandenstein
- Posts: 848
- Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2010 3:51 pm
- Location: O'Fallon, MO
Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question
You have to let the resin harden before you can feather the edge. So, each section is done separately.
I don't recall all the steps exactly. When you set a section of cloth and it has set, I believe I rolled on another layer of resin to help fill the weave. If you do this shortly after it hardens you don't have to worry about the amine blush.
So..
1. encapsulate the hull, wait, wash off blush, lightly sand to roughen
2. Lay on cloth on one section, saturate with resin, roll and squeegee to remove air and get resin bonding to the hull.
3. When green, trim to line.
4. When pretty well set, roll on more resin to help fill the weave.
5. Let section set a day or so to harden well, feather the edges with an RO sander.
6. Wash section to remove sanding dust and blush, lightly sand.
7. Go to # 2 until done.
8. When hull is covered, you will need to roll on more resin to build up a layer to cover the weave and provide some thickness for sanding.
9. When hard, wash the blush and start sanding. The sanding will reveal high and low spots. You may need to add more resin because you don't want to sand through the weave.
I don't recall all the steps exactly. When you set a section of cloth and it has set, I believe I rolled on another layer of resin to help fill the weave. If you do this shortly after it hardens you don't have to worry about the amine blush.
So..
1. encapsulate the hull, wait, wash off blush, lightly sand to roughen
2. Lay on cloth on one section, saturate with resin, roll and squeegee to remove air and get resin bonding to the hull.
3. When green, trim to line.
4. When pretty well set, roll on more resin to help fill the weave.
5. Let section set a day or so to harden well, feather the edges with an RO sander.
6. Wash section to remove sanding dust and blush, lightly sand.
7. Go to # 2 until done.
8. When hull is covered, you will need to roll on more resin to build up a layer to cover the weave and provide some thickness for sanding.
9. When hard, wash the blush and start sanding. The sanding will reveal high and low spots. You may need to add more resin because you don't want to sand through the weave.
Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question
is there any way to keep the rollers good over night and still use next day ?
- Bill Edmundson
- Posts: 12036
- Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
- Contact:
Re: Squirt Fiberglassing Question
Put the roller in a baggy and put it in the freezer. It will harden eventually. They're usually still usable the next morning, if you use slow hardener.
Bill
Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build
Tahoe 19 Build