Malahini from MD

[Sarnian]

Hi folks - thank you for the nice comments!

A question to those who have gone before, or are just smarter than me. In shaping your cover boards - do you typically do this completely by hand, or set up a jig with a router? I have been making these by hand, essentially shaping the outer edge, then running a line a set distance in from the outer edge to get the shape of the internal edge, which I cut, plane, and hand sand - and am reasonably happy with the results - just wondered if there were alternative approaches?

[Biss]

I made templates out of poster board. I used a fixed width from the windshield area forward. Followed the carling to the aft deck then used a thin batten to make a slight arc to the very back. Transferred to my wood and cut it out. Just a little sanding and glued it down. I did use a trim router to flush cut the outside edge.

[Sarnian]

Biss...perfect..thank you.

[footer]

I laid out my boards on the bow back to the cockpit, traced and cut the sheer line and then paralleled a line 6" from the sheer and cut that (page 3 of my post).

[Sarnian]

Thanks Footer - it looks like am doing exactly what you did. I had read that page...because I stole your sawsall method of ripping wide planks.

[Jimbob]

The main thing on coverboards is to have the inner curve symmetrical to the opposing coverboard. (mirror image). Those symmetrical coverboards need to be the same distance from the centerline of the boat to the inner curve, with any excess trimmed from the outer edge of the coverboard to the edge of the hull. (sometimes hulls are not symmetrical so you want to go from the centerline out.) This is important when you get to the point of installing the deck planks. You don't want to come out with a skinny board on one side and a wider one on the other side or have the intersection points of the planks not line up with the opposing side.

I used 1/2" mdf to make a pattern for one side of each coverboard. I then used those patterns to cut and trim the mahogany coverboards. I flipped the pattern over for the opposing coverboard. The 1/2" mdf will allow you to use a flush trim router bit when trimming the mahogany coverboards.

Jim

[PeterG]

So Don Danenberg the restoration wizard has a process like Jimbob's because he knows the old boats are rarely symetrical. Establish the centerline of your deck forward to aft on each frame using the stem center and the transom center for end points. Then lay the cover board pieces in place, making sure the widths extend beyond the intended inner edge and the outer edge. Tack or clamp these in place then lay out equal distances to the inner edge on both sides of the centerline at the frames or frame stations as given in the deck plan view. Leave the outer edge overhanging, these will be trimmed after final installation of the cover boards. Use a batten to connect your inner edge marks and draw then trim the cover boards with your method of choice (saw, router). When final installed, the area between the cover boards should be symetrical and make for even symmetrical caulk lines in your deck boards.

[mrintense]

... because he knows the old boats are rarely symetrical.

Nice to see this as I am pretty sure I have this issue as well. Not terribly different, but some I am sure.

[Sarnian]

PeterG - thanks for this - you described exactly what I ended up doing, although I did it in the most difficult way possible. ie, realizing there was a slight difference in my coverboard width, which affected the distance from coverboard to centerline. I realized this after epoxying the cover boards down . Ended up running a batten on top of the affected cover board to get a good inside curve, then using that as a router guide, with the depth set to just miss the plywood underneath. It was quite a nerve-wracking thing - but actually worked out really well.

[PeterG]

Perfect! That's exactly Don Danenberg's method, glad it work out for you. If and when I get to assembling my Malahini kit I've made, I'll be doing a traditional planked deck and I expect to be using the same method

[Sarnian]

A little progress - sub deck is on, and the cover boards are on - still some trimming to do but I'm pretty happy so far. I have a bit more African mahogany to buy, resaw, and plane.

[mrintense]

Using a router on perfectly good wood is always nerve wracking. One slip and something you've spent time on is either ruined or needs repair. I suspect that most of us here will redo something if it's not right, but I also suspect that none of us like doing it!!

[footer]

Your moving right along nicely. Here's a thought for screwing your boards down. Your on the right track with the screws and washers, but each screw you put through your boards is a hole you have to patch. You also risk splitting the board if you don't pre-drill. I would suggest you put your screws in between your boards as you lay them down, using the board next to it to balance the washer. If you don't make it all the way to your edge board (or center board depending on which way you go) on the last board you put down, lay a temporary shim board to balance the washer (see mine and Biss' pics). Then you won't have any holes to fill (unless, of course, that's the look you are going for, then by all means).

[Sarnian]

Hi Footer - good advice!
When I was doing the cover boards and king plank I wanted the look of the plugs - (although this might not matter too much now I've decided on a v dark stain). For the decking between the king plank and the cover boards I've been doing exactly what you suggested (probably saw it from your pics)..at first I was covering the washers with plastic...but have found I haven't needed to do that - they pop off real easy.

Now, I've run out of mahogany...plus have a bunch of other chores to do, so there won't be much/any progress over the next couple of weeks.

[Sarnian]

so....back from two weeks of work travel - China followed by Maine - two quite different places!

I had a question - again - I am scouring places for trailers, ideally I would like something that is narrow enough to fit in my garage - and the opening is ~82", the options I've found are trailers that are ~76" wide, with a width in between the fenders of 62". Because the malahini is wider than this, even at the bottom of the hull, if I were to get this style of trailer, I think the boat would be quite 'high' on the trailer, in order to clear the fenders - ie the bottom of the boat would be close to the top of the fenders, or even above them.

Bad idea? Too high a center of gravity?

The alternative is buying a wider trailer and storing the boat outside....

As ever, any thoughts are welcome.

I've enjoyed reading about all the progress that's been made over the last couple of weeks, although with a fair amount of jealousy....