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TUBBY TUG / Mark Jenson / / 8-2-98: Parts cut out. 9-22-98: Parts encapsulated, attaching bulkheads to bottom. 11-15-98: Stitching sides to bottom, transom and each other. 4-4-99: Pre-assembling cabin. 5-20-99: Hull interior filleted and taped; foredeck attached; seats done; fitting cabin to hull. 6-17-99: Fiberglassing the hull; hope to launch mid-July 99. 8-17-99: "Kid Stuff!" has been in the water several times since mid-July although the bumper rails and sheer moldings still need to be attached, the interior varnished and the roof lines built up a bit. The boat attracts a lot of attention from both kids and adults and is a lot of fun to be in. I will send pictures when the moldings are completed. 5-8-03: The boat is essentially done although there are cosmetic things which could still be done. (see WebLetter 17)

TUBBY TUG / Willie and James Murphy / / 2/9/01 Started as father / son project June 1999 - Completed Oct 2000 Entered 11th Annual Wooden Boat Exhibit in Georgetown SC, 21 Oct 2000, winning People's Choice Award (Top honors out of 40 boats). Currently located in Charleston, SC, and will be on exhibit at Wooden Boat Appreciation Day in Charleston, 17 June 2001, and again at Wooden Boat Exhibit in Georgetown SC, 22 Oct 2001. Currently working on installing Motor, lights and CD player. We've had a blast working on this boat. 5-7-03: Project has been completed for some time now. We take it to shows a few times a year, and it always seems to be a crowd pleaser (Even had a few offers to buy it). The few times we've had it in water, it's performed very well and with electric trolling motor, seems to be very safe for the kids. (see Customer Photos)

TUBBY TUG / Murphy Lege / / 7-9-01: Have all parts cut out and in the final stages of encapsulating. Hope to begin assembly tomorrow. 8-12-01: Hull stitched together, Hull fillets almost complete, really starting to take shape.

TUBBY TUG / Pat Morrisey / Foster City, CA / / 1-3-05: I have just begun. I have purchased materials - Frame, plans, fasteners and fiberglass kit from Glen-L. "Found wood" from my shop. I have the bottom laid out on sawhorses and have constructed a 4' x 8' sheet of carbon paper for tracing. It is humble, but a beginning. I have been successful in winning bids for a 7" Brass Ships Bell and a 18" Ships Wheel on EBay. There is no turning back now.

TUBBY TUG / Jeff Drexler / Michigan / / 4-26-05: I purchased plans in 1/05 and started building, it is now 4/05 and I am still working on it. I only put in a couple hours a week, due to Scouts and now tee ball. Here are some pictures, my goal is to float by July. (see Customer Photos)

TUBBY TUG / Paul Koons / East Lansing, Michigan / / 1-15-06: Started yesterday with the purchase of Okoume plywood and have since traced and cut out bottom. Today we traced the rest of the patterns and while we take time out to go to grandma’s for dinner, we will try to cut out the rest of the patterns. Still need to order Epoxy kit and plans for the ETM. 1-16-06: Finished cutting out the rest of the patterns today. I also constructed a dolly out of 2 X 6’s with casters so I could move the project around in my garage. Also ordered plans for the ETM mount so I won’t have the same lines across the transom as the plans call for. I will have to try and construct a pattern for the transom bulwark. Even though I’m the captain of this vessel, I still have to answer to the Admiral. She says to slow down a bit on the purchases for a cycle or two. I haven’t told her yet that I’m planning on buying a new 50 lb thrust electric trolling motor only to cut it in half. 1-23-06: received the ETM plans and stitching wire. Will need to modify the plans some but should be able to fit it in. Plan on ordering the epoxy kit tomorrow and will pickup the hardwood for the cabin on friday. Still haven't figured out how I will apply the epoxy in my garage with temperatures in the 20's to 30's. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it... 3-5-06: I received my Epoxy Kit in early February, and decided to wait until warmer weather to start this task. Well, I couldn't wait. I've encapsulated the bottom, glued the cleats to the bulkheads and today, encapsulated the bulkheads. I've been bringing the pieces into my basement workshop where the temps are around 65 degrees. Once the bulkheads cure, I'll start stitching the sides and transom out in the gargage but after that, I'll have to wait for warmer weather to do the fillets. 7-18-07: Well it’s been awhile since I’ve updated my project. It seems like I’m always hung up on cold weather. My prime building hours in the summer months are spent on my other boat, a 42’ Chris Craft in Grand Haven on Lake Michigan. The Tubby Tug hull is complete, and the cabin is complete as far as the structure goes. I still have to insert the front windows and fasten them down. The water cannon pump is mounted on the inside of the front bulkhead and plumbed to a thru-hull for water pickup. I’m working on the dash-board, mounting the helm, buttons and switches for running lights, interior lights, buttons for the horn and water cannon, gages, Ammeter and Battery Condition. Still have to add trim and bumper to hull, finish top side of water cannon, run steering cable and wires for electric motor controls. I’m still waiting on running lights and interior lights to come in. I am using a Safe-T QC steering system with an 8’ cable. I would be interested if others have used this as well. It has a ¾” tapered shaft and my ship’s wheel has a 1” keyed hole. Haven’t figured out what to do yet. All my trim pieces are finished with a dark stain and 4 coats of spar varnish. I will need to add another coat or two once it is installed. If we have an early spring this year, I expect to have her in the water before boating season starts.

TUBBY TUG / Eric Staggs / Spokane, WA / / 2-9-06: I have just finished the stitching of the chine and sides, will be epoxying today.

TUBBY TUG / Kevin, Kathleen and Colleen Murphy / Roswell, GA / / 7-18-06: We have the plans and the wood. We think that we understand the directions, The screws, nails stitching wire and epoxy are "in-transit", having been ordered on-line. At this point, the bottom and the knees have been cut from the 3/8" plywood and patterns are being traced to the first 1/4" plywood to make sure that I can get all of the pieces out of it that I am supposed to. 7-31-06: All of the pieces for the hull have been cut and most have been encapsulated with epoxy. The encapsulation process is very time consuming, especially since my space is limited and I have to do it in stages. I've been trying to get the pieces coated in the order that they will be assembled, and have been fairly successful. I'm a little behind on the transom. This past weekend, Kathleen, Colleen and I attached the bulkheads to the floor. The shape and size of Tubby Tug is much more apparent. We are all anxious to get to the stitching.

TUBBY TUG / Chester Robinson / Sherman, TX / / 8-7-06: I got the plans a few weeks ago and ordered the okoume plywood over the internet. So far my father-in-law and I have cut out all the parts and have encapsulated the wood for the hull. Should be able to attach all the cleats tomorrow and then start stitching the hull together. Only problem so far is the Texas summer heat and very short working times with the epoxy. 9-15-06: Have finished the aft and foreward seats and filled with flotation foam. I placed a half inch pipe w cap inside of each seat for ventilation. Foredeck is on and faired. Started on the cabin, got the front ply sprung across front posts. (see Customer Photos)

TUBBY TUG / Mark Stevenson and grandson Damien Engblom (age 7 1/2) / Sturgeon Bay, WI / / 12-6-06: We (my grandson and I) have just received the plans for the tubby tug and are now transfering patterns to plywood. The bottom is cut and we cutting other pieces. This is a project for him and he is very excited. Launch time is scheduled for spring. We live in Sturgeon Bay, WI. right on Little Sturgeon Bay so this boat will be used by him a lot. I plan on using electric power at this time. I made copies of the boat profile and Damien is designing color schemes for it now.

TUBBY TUG / William A Mackey / Utica, NY / / 6-3-07: I purchased the plans on 2/5/06 and began collecting the materials, I found some 100 year old oak that was previously church pews, which I used for the cabin and all the trim. 5/20/06: hull complete,cabin complete on 7/22/06. 9/23/06: all painted and ready. Wasn't able to go for maiden voyage until 5/28/07. It was in the water 7/4/06 but just to reach my personal goal. Had to wait till this season as it required a HIN, which took much longer than I excepted. This memorial day was the first voyage, hell or high water, and it was 20 mph wind and 1 ft. waves, but this little boat took it like a champ. Thanks Glen-L ! (see Customer Photos)

TUBBY TUG / Paul Brown / Australia / / 10-23-07: I have finally finished Tubby Tug. I started on 25 January and completed 19 October, with a time of 362 hrs. I think hours could have been reduced if I had not had trouble with varnish finishes over epoxy. The boat turned heads on the way to the water and in the water, building this vessel was a very satisfying experience. I would reccomend it to anyone, the end product is so unique. Power is 54lb thrust electric outboard supplied by 2 100ah batteries which can be switched from one to the other as required. Electric out board supplier was horrified when I told him I wanted to cut it in half, and procceded to tell me there could be no warranty. The trailer is a Glen-L 650, which I modified slightly as I wanted protection for the propeller. With one person on board trim is slightly bow down, this is probably due to battery placement. With two up trim is spot on, one in wheel house and one on stern seat its more fun with two anyway and so quiet. (see Customer Photos)

TUBBY TUG / Kevin Brown / McDonough, GA / / 10-25-07: As of Oct 2007, I have finished the glue-up of the hull and flipped it to cover in fiberglass. I have begun the cabin. I travel with my job and am only able to work on the boat every other week-end. I have 31 hours build time into the boat and plan on finishing by Jan of 2008 (my daughter's birthday). I have a website that is documenting the build.

TUBBY TUG / Trent Morrison / Damascus, Oregon / / 8-9-08: Received plans on 8/7/08. All patterned plans are cut out, looking forward to hull assembly.

TUFFY / Don Slomke / / 7-18-01: Received plans and began construction 6-30-01. As of 7-10-01, form, frames, chine log and sheer clamp are done. On 7-14-01 began planking sides. 7-17-01: Began bottom planking. Hope to finish hull and turn over to begin topside by 7-28-01. So far, so good. 7-22-01: Rear 1/2 of side and bottom planking glued & screwed. Hope to finish all hull planking and flip over to start topside by 7-24-01. I am 24 days into the boat at this point, (about 19 days actual working time). 7-23-01 All hull planking in place. I built a cradle to support hull to finish topside. Hope to get some help and turn hull over 7-24. 7-27-01: Hull turned over, carlings, decking, and motorwell sides installed. Now adding motorwell bottom and ready to install cowling and dashboard. Hope to turn back over by 7-30 (30 days total time) and begin fiberglassing. While I'm resting, I will help a friend build "Cruisette". 7-28-01: Cut and installed motorwell, dash, flooring, and cowl. All that remains (other than seating), is to glue down decking and minor fitting of cowl / dash pieces. Will turn over to begin fiber glassing in 1-2 days. 7-29-01 All woodwork complete (except seating) I will turn over and start glassing the hull in a day or two. Total time so far 29 days from start (about 23 actual working days) 8-10-01: hull has been completely coated with resin and all seams fiberglass taped. (HINT: buy a set of dispensers that screw into cans of resin and hardener. This makes the job 100X easier and you get a precise mix each time even if you mix a very small amount of resin!!) 8-18-01 Fiberglassing complete on hull sides and bottom. Will start painting hull about 8-20-01. I have 50 days (about 40 actual working days) in the project now. I have made parts for the steering system (drum & cable type) and hope to launch by 1st week of September. I will still have some interior work to do, but I can't wait any longer! 8-31-01: Hull is finished and painted. I still have some interior finishing to do, but I am going to launch Tuffy tomorrow! I am 60 days into the project, and very little remaining. I am powering it with a 9.9hp YAMAHA ( the closest lake has a 10hp limit) but this winter I will rebuild the engine with a few mods and a 15hp carb. 8-2-01: A mere 61 days after starting the project, we launched TUFFY. The boat performed well (for a 13' boat, I'm used to much larger ones). We got 21 m.p.h. with a stock 1985 9.9 YAMAHA and a "well used" prop. That is with two 250+ lb passengers! The boat was dry as a bone inside when we pulled it out. We did get a little spray from jumping wakes though! (I would recommend installing the spray rails) I can take my time finishing the interior now, and I plan to work the motor over this winter. I had 2 people want to know where to get the plans to build one while at the launch ramp. I will have some good pictures soon. 10-1-01: Update on "Tuffy's" performance: with a new 10-1/2" Yamaha prop, (which I may have worked over this winter) we saw 25 m.p.h. with a 200# passenger in the front seat and myself (280#) in the back! I did find out the 15 hp parts are already on the engine, but there is surely more speed to be had! Thanks for a great project, I highly recommend the Tuffy for a first timer, the instructions are super easy to follow and very detailed. Now I am starting my T-N-T for when I want to zip around by myself.(See Customer Photos)

TUFFY / Anthony Moschella / Email address not valid 5-6-03 / 10-8-01: First time boat builder, with some (limited) carpentry experience. I'm 21 and a full time student at Brown University in Providence, RI and I've been dreaming of building my own boat for years. This summer working nights and weekends I finished the Tuffy. The project was built entirely in my garage in Cedar Knolls, NJ. I worked on it most weekends and tried to work a few nights a week. I completed the project in 3 months to the day, beginning on 28 May 2001 and finishing on 28 August 2001, two days before I had to go back to college. So I never got a chance to put her in the water. I can't wait until spring. I still need to finish the interior, mount the motor, and install seating, but otherwise its complete. It came out amazing, especially for my first try. The hardest parts were bending the chines and curving the foreward portions of hull sheeting. For the chines I had to depart from the plans and use 3 laminations of 1/4" oak lattice instead of the the 1" mahagony called for in the plans. I just couldn't get it to bend, but I think the oak will work fine. And I broke a piece of plywood when laying the foreward hull. The secret is patience! you had to bend at little at a time (volumes have been written by others about this). Also, you have to position the grain of wood along the maximum axis of curvature. I worked almost entirely alone, with my father, brother, and friends helping a little. This project was probably the single most rewarding thing I have ever done, and I encourage anyone considering beginning a boat to go for it. It was so amazing and rewarding and powerful to see a pile of wood become something beautiful and functional. I learned a lot about carpentry, but more importantly, it was so introspective. Boatbuilding honestly changed my life, it was exactly what I needed. Glen-L plans were excellent and everyone at Glen-L was extremely helpful. Any questions or problems I'd be happy to help out. Good luck!

TUFFY / Dan Belyea / Mt. Jackson, VA / / 2-20-02: Have completed all parts and the building form. Have bought majority of wood including 1/4" Marine Grade AB plywood and oak keel and battens. I am preparing to glue frame pieces and stem parts together to complete the three frames and stem and be ready to add Keel and Battens.

TUFFY / David Langman / Orangeville, Ontario, Canada / / 9-26-02: Started work in September 2001. Built the frames, and waited for warm weather. In April, moved to the garage, built the jig, and completed the project July 7, 2002. Modified the transom (3 laminations of plywood) and transom knee (4 3/4 laminations of plywood) to support a 60HP 2 cylinder short shaft Evinrude (1981). I shortened the deck 6" and moved the seats forward. The steering system (rack/pinion) exits through the right hand side deck requiring a hole in the deck. I installed an old water-ski fin amidships instead of using the wooden keel from the patterns. With a 19" aluminium 3 blade prop, the boat will hit 42 MPH, and will hold 40 with 4 teenagers. It rides like a dream on calm water, corners well, but avoid boat wakes at 40 MPH! Used plenty of epoxy, and instead of glass, used landscape fabric. 5-8-03: I finished my Tuffy July of 2002. Love the boat, fast, safe for the teenagers, and 4 seats to carry a crowd.(see Customer Photos)

TUFFY / Scott D / Narraganset Bay, MA / / 1-22-03: Ready to apply bottom and side panels. 5-12-03: Progressing slowle, but I try to do a little every day.

TUFFY / David McAdam / Ireland / / 8-17-03: Finished the building form, still putting mahogany frames together.

TUFFY / Allan Gillis / / 8-17-06: I previously built your TNT and I have now built the Tuffy model (white with blue stipes). A little about the boat: I built it spacifically to use in rivers as a jet boat and modified the original design. The transom motor mounting hight was raised 7 inches. The transom angle was changed to 18 degrees. The boat bottom now has a tunnel extending 2 feet forward, 2 inches tapered from transom, 16 inches in wide. These changes were made to accommodate a jet 40 Merc outboard, the tunnel allows the jet intake to not be below the bottom of the boat. The boat is epoxy encapsulated on the inside and fiberglassed on the outside.
How well does it work? Wow what a machine, its on plane instantly even with passengers, only needs 3 inches of water depth. Once on plane I need only half thottle. It literaly will go anywhere and is the funest thing I have ever driven.
How long did it take to build? 3 months. How much did it cost? 9000 for motor ( new ), 400 for steering, 3000 for boat, 1200 for traler. Prices in Canadian dollars. (see Customer Photos)

TUFFY / Scott and Cameron MacPherson / Ontario, Canada/ / 10-2-07: Started 11/12/05: Got basically everything cut out and measured, products collected, and hardware bought, ready to start. Took a break for the summer of '06. Started up again in the fall of '06. Finished 12/08/07. We full out fiberglassed and painted. Great little boat. Put a 40hp 4 stroke EFI Mercury on the back. Fast, quiet, and fun. Does 39mph with aluminum prop. See what happens with the SS prop. Handles great with one person, better with two. $10,500 project. Very worth it though. Cost breakdown: New motor $7500; Controls, RPM cable, Steering, Seats, Battery, Trim Tabs: $1000; Paint and fiberglass: $900; Hardware: $100; Wood: $1000.
3-12-08: When my dad and I completed the Tuffy we did not do any modifications at all besides raise the transom height to 20" using stainless steel. What sits on the back is a brand new Mercury 40hp 4 Stroke EFI 2007 that I bought at the Toronto International Boat Show earlier that year. It turns a 10.25' x 14'P aluminum propeller that sets us close to 40mph with the trim all the way down. It has power trim so we will see more speed in the future... We installed the works into her; gauges, no feedback steering, up front 11.5 Gallon gasoline tank, nice throttle and shifter and Nauticus smart tabs. We are adding more and more to it each day. It has been one of the most interesting projects I have ever done. I will soon be buying either plans for the Zip and/or the Squirt. I am buying two used outboards which are the Mercury Mark25H 1958 and 1961 Mercury 650 65hp outboards for under $1000 in total.
I love your designs and your designs only. This is my own first boat and I will be building many more because of this is my new hobby. I don't even have a car yet, just a boat! Thanks! (See Customer Photos)

TUG ALONG 16' / Jeremy Hawn / Plattsburg, Missouri / / 6-24-2010: Started building 21 June 2010; now in the process of stitching the hull together.

TUG ALONG 16' / Richard MacRae / Toronto, Canada / / 1-13-2011: I've been building the Tug Along 16' with my son, since the end of September, 2010. I've completed the hull, deck and installed the bulwark, motor well sides and transom. I've also painted the bottom interior of the hull below the water line.

TUG ALONG 18' / Wayne Conklin / Spring Hill, Florida / / 10-30-2010: I actually started the Tug Along 18 today...starting by cutting out the hull sides/then the hull bottom/battons/keel etc....
11-15-2010: I recieved the plans in early September, secured a workshop, ordered some plywood and started cutting it October 28th. All parts for the hull have been cut, including temporary forms. I have the sides glued together, and will start gluing the hull bottom this week...hope to order the stich & glue kit soon.

TUNNEL KING / Matthew Green / Canada / Email address not valid 5-6-03 / 12-5-98: Completed boat June/96 (started Sept 95). Built with DF plywood, Phil. mahog. longditudals. Have photos of every stage of construction, and lots of advice for builders. Lots of high perf. setup advice for this hull as well. Runing V-4 Johnson to 75+ mph - will begin drag racing in summer. (See News Letters/WebLetter 8, 13, 16)

TUNNEL KING / Daniel Boulet / Montreal, QU, Canada / / 9-28-03: I'm at studying the plans and the instructions. My goal right now is to read over and over the instructions and studying the plans at the same time to get a complete picture of the whole project before I start cutting the first piece of wood.

TUNNEL MITE / John C. Smith / Edmonds, WA / / 4-2-00: Completed 5-7-03: Barry, the tunnel-mite was completed about 30 days after I got the plans. Photo's of it are on the archived photo board.

TUNNEL MITE / Jim Guarino / / 10-19-01: I started my boat in July 2001. I am, at this point, completely epoxied. I have made a few modifications along the way. I'll explain... #1-I used 3/4" thick plywood for the hull frames, it worked very well, it saved weight, and I was able to route them from a template. I glassed them in prior to closing the hulls. #2 I had stainless steel fuel tanks made to go in the hulls. One on each side, 3 gallons each, tight to the front of frame 2. This cleaned up the cockpit, no need for the red fuel tank bouncing around and it brings the weight of the fuel forward. #3 I increased the height of the dashboard, which gave me room on the dash for gages and gave the cowl a real nice aerodynamic shape. Now I am filling and sanding in preparation for primer. 5-6-03: I'm still alive and ready to run my boat for the first time this spring. It turned out great and I want to scan some photos and I will e-mail them to you and update my registry so others can contact me.

TUNNEL MITE / Steve Abplanalp / / 12-10-01: Approximately 2/3 complete on the wood construction. 5-6-03: Project "stalled-out", but, still planning to complete. All woodwork is done. Glass and all mechanicals remain to be completed.

TUNNEL MITE / Peter Nicola / / 11-22-02: My name is Peter and I Started working on the Tunnel Mite in late September have completed the Frame, Transom and Bottom. The work has been halted now for about a month now due to the cold, the epoxy doesn't work when it gets cold and the electric heat in my (drafty) barn only adds 10 degrees to the outside temp. If anyone in the New Hampshire / Vermont area is building, has built or is considering the Tunnel Mite Get in touch with me. I expect to be afloat on the lakes in June this coming spring. 5-13-03: I added a propane heater to my barn workshop and was able to get the bottom finished. Now that spring is here, I'll be able to get more done. The goal is to get the project done by summer! (See Customer Photos)

TUNNEL MITE / Donnie Gilliland / / 11-6-04: I am constructing the Tunnel Mite for my nephews and granddaughter. I just finished the tunnel sides and planking and anticipate turning it over to start on the top side in the next few days. I'd really like to get it finished for summer. 3-14-06: Well as everyone knows, time flies. Here it is March of '06 and I am just now applying the side decking and cowl. It went on very quickly but now I’m starting the fairing and filling of the top side. I’m struggling with the fairing of the scarf joint on the forward section of the side decking; it’s just so flat! I suspect by next week, I’ll be applying the seal coat and ‘glass to the top. Then the 3rd and 4th coats of Poxy Shield will go on. I’ve begun to research paint and finishing choices; it’s even more confusing than I anticipated. I have a lot of help with paint schemes to choose from thanks to my nephews and granddaughter. I look forward to the launching sometime this summer, I need to get it completed and out of my woodshop so I can start on the Tiny Might.

TUNNEL MITE / Dave Boxrud / Vancouver Island, Canada / / 1-27-05: I built the Tunnel Mite in our boat building class in 1977. I wanted the Tunnel Mite to look like the bigger tunnels so I designed the top deck to look like them, building and designing the boat gave me an "A". The canopy is made from 1/8" Mahogany. I wet the wood and bent it over the frames, the front I used canvas over frames and fared out with light filler. Contact me through my email to ask me any questions. (see Customer Photos)

TWO PLUS / Jeff / / 2-10-00: Finished frame #2. 5-4-00: Finished final frame. Starting work on breasthook and stem.

TWO PLUS / Kjetil Petersen / Norway / / 6-29-02: Started project mid april 2002. Have completed frames and set up everything on buidling form. Frames made of Norwegian spruce (heartwood). Keel and bottom battens + chine log finished. Can only work a few hours every week. But I hope to be able to turn the hull over sometime in august 02. 9-2-02: The hull is completed. I used 10mm Okoume marine plywood for the sides and the forward section of the bottom. This plywood is very lightweight and easy to bend, a little soft though. The bottom is covered with meranti plywood. To further increase the bottom strength I used 400 gr. Biaxial glass. The sides are covered with 200 gr. ordinary glass cloth. Basically I could now sand and paint. But the hull is looking so incredibly good that I really want to go all the way and cover the sides with mahogany strips. I am currently trying to find a local supplier for this. I won't be able to keep my schedule of turning the hull his month. But still I hope to get the boat completed for next summer. 5-29-03: My Two Plus project is going quite good. After putting the plywood on the frames I thought the hull looked so nice that I really wanted to create a mahogany cruiser of this boat. I found a local supplier of Khaya mahogany. I ordered 6mm thick and 45 mm wide strips that had bed and cove as in strips used for strip planking. This in some ways made it easier to glue the strips to my hull. But I found that in the areas near to the bow these strips where a little too wide to be used with bed and cove. Very difficult to get a tight fit.
When sides and front part of bottom were finally covered and the epoxy cured. I cut of most of the epoxy drippings with a power plane set to zero level. This actually worked fine. This was followed by hours and hours of sanding. I used a disk sander. The result was quite good. I mixed a custom colour of water based stain and applied it with some old T-shirts. I then covered everything in three layers of epoxy. I used glass cloth for the bottom section only. Time will show if this was a good idea. Just before Christmas I called for a truck with crane to help me turn the hull over. From January until now, I have averaged about 6 hours every week. Progress is a little slow. But decks are in place as well as the main cabin structure. I had plans for getting it in the water this summer. But there is still a lot of work to be done.

TWO PLUS / Ahmed Ahmed / Dubai/U.A.E. / / 10-8-05: Purchasing framing materials.

UNION JACK / Scott A. Ochocki / / 04-03-01: I spent about two months picking the Union Jack and plan the live aboard her on the Northeastern seaboard when completed. I spent probably 50 hours lofting the lines on the computer using the table of offsets. I have decided to simply have a printing company print out full size paper patterns and transfer them to sheet steel and use a plasma cutter at work to cut them out. Next to purchase 4 sheets of 3/16 sheet steel to cut out the stations and start looking for a welder and table saw. Continue (see Customer Photos)

UNION JACK / Patrick Walsh / Ireland / / 10-25-03: All the frames are made and currently fitting Bulwark Rail. I will send photos of project soon. 6-27-04: I am starting Sheeting this week, going well so far. 8-13-04: I am enclosing some photographs for you to see, as you can observe I am in the middle of the sheeting. Because I took special care with the frames and the longitudionals the sheeting is falling in nicely with the help of pullers and homemade clamps. I used a Jig Saw (Makita, Bosch) to cut out the frames, skeg and sheeting, it will shorten the life of a saw but it is excellent at cutting accurately and curving. The best quality blade must be used. I expect and hope i will be turning the hull by Christmas. (see Customer Photos)

UNION JACK / Bob May / Cyprus / / 9-21-06: Cutting out the bulkhead shapes. Cyprus being a small island is not geared up for steel boat builders. Although they have nice glossy stock brochures they don't stock all they advertise. Getting the right or near right size of flat bar is a huge problem. 3-7-07: Tried cutting out with jig saw, but it was very slow. I treated myself to a new plasma cutter, very small and compact, has an inverter rather than a transformer. Now finished cutting out the stem and keel in 12mm. Could not get 1/2 inch next size was 15mm.

UNION JACK / David Ainge / Townsville, Australia / / 10-21-08: TOWNSVILLE, ON AUSTRALIA'S TROPICAL NORTH EAST COAST
I started building Union Jack Easter 2002. I was still earning a living until the end of 2005 so building was restricted to evenings and weekends. Fortunately we live on acreage so I was able to build at home, which was a great time-saver. I could do an hour or two at a time, without wasting time travelling to a building site (or having to go back home to fetch something). After I retired at the end of 2005 I was able to work more or less full-time on the project for part of the year. From start to finish I spent about 4000 hours on the boat. Thirty years ago I took 3000 hours to build a 37ft plywood yacht, so I knew what I was in for this time.

Steel was a new challenge. I had basic downhand arc welding skills, but had never done anything serious in the other positions. I took a few lessons from a pro, then relied on learning on the job. When in doubt I practiced on scrap steel until I felt competent to work on the boat. To this day I still find vertical corner welds the hardest. At the beginning I took some trouble to set up a strong and level steel support for the boat, and that was time and material very well spent. Contrary to the usual practice I built the hull the right way up. I live in tropical Australia and most of the year working in an upturned steel hull would be unbearable, and the discomfort and sweat in the eyes would wreck the concentration. I never had any trouble doing it right way up, and apart from the advantage of ventilation and light, it made handling the hull plates quite easy. Once the frames were set up and firmly in place I rigged a primitive hoist on top, and lifted the side hull plates into position. When doing this I was always inside the boat, so that if a plate fell I was safe. In this way I was able to manage large plates, and there are only three plates on each side between deck and chine. I used masonite (hardboard) for templates, and by taking trouble to get them right I managed to cut the plates very close, with only a little trimming needed here and there. I also used large plates on the bottom, because I didn't have to lift them very far, and if one fell there was no harm done, unlike a large piece of steel slipping off an upturned hull.

I have often read that building in steel is fast. That was not my experience. Steel did seem quick in the early stages. It didn't take too many weeks to make the frames, erect them, put in the stiffeners, and tack on the hull plates. Before long I was walking around in something that bore a strong resemblance to a boat. The progress seemed great. Then the serious welding started, and went on, and on... One of the hardest jobs was shaping the carling. I couldn't roll it, so I shaped it with an oxy which took a long time. Nevertheless, eventually the hull was finished, and again living on acreage was helpful because I was able to have it blasted on site, rather than transport it to a yard and back, which was a big saving.

Building the ply superstructure was straightforward. I covered it with dynel-epoxy, being familiar with that system from my previous boat. Fitting out took about eighteen months full-time. I have to say that it was more enjoyable than the hull. I am basically a woodworker at heart, and on some of our hot, humid days the protective clothing for steelwork was very uncomfortable. I kept the general interior layout of Union Jack but made some modifications to suit our requirements. One example was that I did not make the settee berth-back into a second bunk which could be lifted up for use, because we do not anticipate any use for it. I also altered the wheelhouse sole so that at some future time the engine could be lifted up, and out through the door (not too often, I hope). I enlarged the cockpit a little (with corresponding additional drainage) and fitted a small table, because this climate demands a good deal of sitting outside, daytime and evening. I was uneasy about making the toilet holding tank a part of the hull, worrying about future corrosion in a hard-to-reach and nasty place, so I fitted a flexible tank instead. I could not see the point of having the rudder shaft emerge into the boat below the waterline, with the potential for leaks/drips so I raised the shaft tube, still using a stuffing box, of course.

I found the plans clear and accurate. They do require careful study at some stages, but the necessary information seems to be all there. Some additional measurements for setting up the stem would have made that job easier. I didn't get back to Glen-L with many questions, but when I did, the responses were quick and helpful.

You will notice in the photos that I had a proper set of steps to the boat. In view of the hundreds of times I went up and down them, sometimes carrying large items, they were worth their weight in gold. A ladder would make the job much harder, with greater risk of a fall.

We launched "Tabitha Too" ( our first boat was "Tabitha") nearly two weeks ago. It was a very nervous time, and it was hard to avoid some irrational worries. Building a boat is, after all, a very big investment in time and money, and we have all heard horror stories about amateur boats being launched. In spite of all that, the launch was uneventful. Tabitha Too sat about 1 inch above the designed waterline, and slightly high at the stern, but a full load of water should fix that. Our plan is to cruise the waters of the Great Barrier Reef for a year, so we moved on board on launch day. For the first twenty four hours I couldn't stop looking into the bilge for leaks, but that compulsion gradually subsided when I didn't find any. Speaking of water in the bilges, I had Tabitha Too surveyed during building, and the surveyor emphasized the importance of keeping seawater out of a steel boat. I have heard that they rust from the inside. He recommended one of the expensive prop shaft seals rather than a stuffing box, which needs a regular drip to lubricate it. Unfortunately, finances didn't stretch that far, so I used a traditional stuffing box, but underneath I fitted a drip box made from left-over perspex. It is quite big, so emptying it won't be a chore, and it keeps the bilge dry.

Our first boat was under-anchored, and we used to drag from time to time. We had a moderate size CQR with chain and rope, but even with a yacht which presented a fairly streamlined profile to the wind, it wasn't up to the job. I was determined not to be in that situation again, especially as Union Jack presents a considerable area to the wind. This time around I fitted the biggest CQR I could buy, and 1/2 inch chain. The breaking strain of that size chain is over the top, but its weight helps to ensure that in moderate winds at least, the pull on the anchor is horizontal, not upwards. Time will tell, especially if we have to shelter from a cyclone which is always a possibility in the tropical summer.

We have had one short trip so far. To get from the launch site to the marina we had to go out to sea for a few miles. It was blowing 20-25 knots, with a short, choppy sea. Tabitha Too handled it very well. We had to motor parallel to the swell for a while, and Tabitha Too rolled a bit, but she handled the conditions well and we quickly developed confidence in her. I think she will prove to be a very seaworthy vessel. We are looking forward to some very happy times on her.

A final word. Before I built my first boat, others who had been through the experience tried to tell me how long such a project would take. I didn't believe them. Looking at a 31 foot boat it doesn't seem possible that it would take 3000-4000 hours to build. Professionals, of course, don't take anywhere near that long, or they'd go broke. For the amateur, however, that is the reality if you are doing all the work yourself. If you want a boat of a similar size to Union Jack, and you can't find that number of hours, buy one, or build a house instead. I have built two boats and one house, and the house was much quicker and easier.

I am very happy to discuss my experiences with anyone else who is building. (See Customer Photos)

UTILITY / Steve Barrett / / 8-2-99: Recently completed and launched successfully.

UTILITY / Bruce Holley / / 8-6-99: Frames on building form, installing chine logs. 5-24-03: My project is not doing so well as i got to the fairing part and wasnt very satisfied. I really want to finish this boat because I really like the way the frame looks and I want to fish from the little rascal!

UTILITY / Doug Schmidt / / 5-15-00: Installing sheer clamps. 5-8-03: The Utility has been complete for almost 2 years now and can't wait to get it out again this year. I had picked the Utility so I could take it with us when we go camping. I just put it on top of my popup camper and strap it down.

UTILITY / Jim Kos / / Western Oklahoma / 12-26-02: Just started on the project December 23. 2002. Building it as a Father Day gift for my Father. Building it in the basement, too cold outside and in Garage. I would like to hear from anyone who has built the Utility. I will post pictures as I progress.

UTILITY / Lloyd Johnson / / 9-11-04: I ordered the plans for the Utility on 8-30-04; received them on 9-3-04. I have built my frame and cut out full size patterns for all of the frames and the stem and transom. The wood is ordered and I am waiting to get it. I can't wait to get this one done so I can start on a BIG one.

UTILITY / Steve Miller / Portland, OR / / 1-16-05: Have the frames, transom, stem, breasthook done.
4-17-08: I have finished the boat. In addition to the photos on the website, there is a complete, step-by-step photo journal of the entire process from start to finish to speed testing at (See Customer Photos)

Editor's Note: Steve is building the Utility, NOT the Flats Flyer. For some unknown reason some builders looking for information on the Flats Flyer are finding Steve, but he's not a source for Flats Flyer information. Thank you.

V-DORY / Chris Gill / / 6-27-98: Layout of frames, cutting frames

V-DORY / Alex Carlson / / 4-1-99: Just getting started, constructed building form, layed out frames, stem and transom. Cutting and assembling frames. 5-3-01: It's been a while but I'm finally back at it. Don't have any heat in the boat shed so I can't use epoxy in the winter. Have completed the frames, fastened sides, and double layers of bottom in bow section. Hope to get the rest of bottom on soon, glassed painted and rolled over. 1-7-02: Well, the wheels of progress turn slowly here but I'm still at it. Finished the plywood on the hull, 3/8 on the sides and 3/4 on the bottom. Glassed the hull with two layers of 6 oz. cloth and epoxy, attached white oak bottom battens and mahogany spray rail and guard. I have primed the topsides and and one coat of piant on but winter has set in and this may be as far as I get till spring. I hope to get the boat finished this spring/summer and in the water. 5-9-03: The project is still in progress, it is coming along very well although very slowly. Since I started building the V-Dory I have gotten married, bought a house, and as of last fall adopted a little boy so I've had some bigger things that have required my attention. I also have no heat in the "boat shed" where I'm building it so not much can be done in the winter months. Anyway, cockpit sole is in, foredeck and rails are done and fiberglassed, I'm going to start on the wheelhouse soon.

V-DORY / Matt O'Neill / Email address not valid 5-6-03 / 7-14-99: Completed Spring of 1994, fished her hard ever since. Power is a 90hp Force outboard on the transom. Clocked at 25mph in fairly calm water.

V-DORY / Jack Lavallet / Daphne, Alabama / / 8-07-00: Building on the driveway in the back yard. Frames complete except for forming the forward battens. First two attempts at pulling the outer battens down to the forwardmost frame broke them. Am now installing "parallel", kerfed battens from the third frame forward. Sides and bottom two panels in place. Using Bondo epoxy putty to fill all screw countersinks and random holes. Also, used a construction adhesive for compression-loaded joints. Assume this stuff will work!! Responses and visitors welcome. 9-1-00: Sides complete except for attaching to the stem. Bottom complete except for last two pieces at bow. Trying to bend on these last two pieces with 1/2 inch plywood because the local wood dealer no longer carries 1/4. Found the "pour hot water on towels laid on the plywood" method works great for forming bow plywood to the bottom frames, but watch out for burying the screwheads too deeply in the soft (wet) veneer. Found that in building the form level on a sloping driveway, and building the boat with the bow at the "shallow" end, I had to lower the forms to raise the bow to clear the concrete. That actually made it easier to reach the middle of the bottom with just a step rather than a ladder. Bow pieces of the sides and bottom require a lot of time for fitting. Next boat will definitely go faster. 10-05-00: Hull complete now. Using build-ups of 1/4 inch plywood for the bow bottom turned a headache into a piece of cake. I cut full-size patterns from scrap plywood and got a good fit before cutting the marine plywood. Bottom seems to be rock-solid. Just finished three coats of primer, and will begin the finish coats this weekend. Then face the task of turning the hull upright on a trailer -- which I haven't got figured out yet. 12-21-00: Hull completed, pilot house set in place. Neighbors and (most importantly) wife are impressed. Floor made of longitudinal planks of spruce, single-screwed to floor frames. Forgot to cut limber holes between longitudinal keel and battens, so have to put individual drains in each "compartment". Used lots of coppertox on raw wood ends / edges before painting, and this may prove to be in error unless it dries so paint will stick. Made my own doug-fir coping for trimming, and it looks great. Am planning engine controls for the well-mounted outboard. Likely I'll use a bellcrank mounted to the well. Pictures of project will be sent soon. 3-3-01: Attached pictures show the boat right before final painting. Its rained since, so I'll have to send the "final product" in a day or so. I'm using Jack Tar yacht paint from BLP Paints, and its worked great so far -- plus the paint's no more expensive than good house paint. We'll see how it holds up. Got the boat on a trailer I picked up used, but it looks new. Searching for an outboard now, and will go with a good used one. I'm building a seat -- really a box with a hinged lid -- for the "cabin." I'm ready to start the next one! Maybe I'll sell this one. Good job, Glen-L. 5-7-03: V-dory has been "wet" for two years now. In that time I've modified it twice -- once to remove the cabin originally installed (I found I was hot more than I was wet, so opted for more "air" under a bimini cover), and once to cut down the motor well sides to get a different outboard lower in the water (Mercury motors are tall and thin, Yamaha's are short and fat and it hit the sides of the box). I also fully decked the insides to make shrimp handling easier and added a helm console. One good thing about a wooden boat -- you can cut, drill, bore, refill, caulk and do it all over again all you want. This boat is a rock in the water. Only wish is that I'd built in a gas tank under the floor, but that can be the next project. I want to build another V-dory and install a small diesel inboard. Anyway - I'm still here! Keep up the good work!(See Customer Photos)

V-DORY / Stephen Lippincott / / 11-13-00: I have just finished putting on the sheer clamp and have started the plywood sides and bottom. 5-14-01: Have just completed glassing the hull, used epoxy and 10oz cloth- discovered that it is very important to coat the wood and let it sit 1/2 hour and coat again before laying glass down. Next spend a long time sanding hull for paint. 3-6-03: The boat has worked out wonderfully for me and have enjoyed it. 5-8-03: Email valid. (see Customer Photos)

V-DORY / Ken Sweeney / Kennewick, Wa. / / 12-29-01: I started sawing and assembling frames in November 2001. Final frames and building form soon to follow. Using Glen L Poxy Shield with thickeners for glue, and will encapsulate final hull. I have a 120 I/O for power, but am a little concerned that it may be underpowered. Have purchased Cabin Plans. Plans and instructions are good, and while the patterns are useful, they would be much better if they were produced as "full frame", instead of "half frame". 11-16-02: After almost a year of neglect, the project has been thawed out and is back under way. The building form is erected and all frames are in place. Much time was spent aligning and leveling them before inner battens and chines/sheer clamps were placed and fastened. Two laminations of 5/8" material were used for chines/sheer because of availability, and they bent easily. Use of the Fastening Kit has been handy. Plywood is soon to follow. Seems that few people have ever seen a boat being built before. Adults and kids take quite an interest in how its done. 9-2-03: The underside of the hull was finished 8-29-03, and turned over the next day. 11 friends and neighbors made it very easy to handle this large boat by hand. Below the waterline was treated with a product called Polyurea. It is similar to the spray on bedliner common on pickups, only it is of higher flexibility and durability. It is applied professionally by the local Line-X dealer, and goes on almost 1/8" thick. Over this, I sprayed on a high solids polyurethane paint, as the polyurea color will fade if not top-coated. This all added significantly to the cost of the hull, but it seems that it will make the underside many times more durable. The sides were painted with common automotive paint. Interior work will soon be underway.

V-DORY / Marty Rufh / / 8-2-05: Received plans and patterns, buying materials.

V-DORY / Captain Carl Jurcin / Luna Pier, Michigan / / 1-9-08: I bought your V Dory plans a couple of years ago but did not start immediately. Now, the three foot lengthened hull is about done. I do not have an indoor space available so the dory is upside down & covered. I have a heater & lighting in the boat so work can be done through the winter. I live on Lake Erie in Luna Pier, Michigan. I captain fishing boats for a friend of mine. I started with African Mahogany frames, all barrier coated with West Epoxy. Starting from the stern the boat is covered to all but four or five feet on the starboard side. Most all has been epoxied on the outside, starting at the stern. Since I cannot work outside now I have started from the transom, triple coating the interior with epoxy and painting as I go along. Alternating, working on the outside and inside, has given me the time to plan my cabin, wiring, fuel supply, & other things. It has worked well for me. I will mount the engine, 100 hp., on a self constructed "sea drive" platform that will also serve as the fuel tank if the boat will balance properly. I want to keep all the interior open if I can. There will be no bulkhead in the cabin because the motor steering & throttle will be operated by linier actuators & joysticks, all 12v, no hydraulics. The cabin will be very spacious & almost completely open. There will also be two 150# thrust electric motors, one on either side, as far as possible, operated by joysticks. The electrics will be used to duplicate a drift & entering harbor, plus docking. The fuel prices are very high here & this should save considerably. My wiring will be in pvc, with juction boxes in various places, just under the gunnel. There will be absolutely nothing in the bilge. All light wiring will be at least 24" above the flooring, leading to the cabin roof for navigation lights. I have kept photographic records & will forward when the vessel is turned in the Spring. I built a "Sissy Do" two years ago and use it on Lake Erie up to about seven miles out. I made her a bit longer with more beam & depth, a small forward & rear deck. What pleasure it has given me. The 10 hp. is mounted on a bracket on the reinforced transom. The boat is steered electrically with a joystick. All the interior, complete with GPS, radio, fish & depth sounder, is open for Walleye & Smallmouth fishing. The boat has required navigation lights, folding top, & roller for anchor. The boat is heavier, not fast, but very safe. Both projects have given a lot of pleasure to some of my friends & myself. Yours Truely, Captain Carl Jurcin

V-DORY / Stefan Karakashian / Bellingham, WA / / 3-17-08: Registering my new construction of the V-Dory. The boat is being built in Bellingham, Washington. I have purchased the plans a couple of weeks ago and have purchased frame lumber. I have some of the frames completed and the building form erected. I would strongly recommend getting the epoxy kit and the fastener kit from Glen-L. I have started and have been fortunate to be able to track down limited quantities of the silicon bronze fasteners, but also at considerably higher prices than Glen-L. I have decided to go with Marine AB BS1088 Meranti plywood in the thicknesses specified in the Bill of Materials. I shopped around on the internet and found that located in Seattle, WA had significantly lower prices than the outlets in California and the material is first rate and certified. Shipping is free in the Puget Sound area and reasonable otherwise. The frames are being made out of clear Douglas fir. Lastly for now, I recommend looking at the similar builds that other have done in "Customer Photos" it really gives you a good idea how the project will unfold.
3-23-08: Started the build officially on 2-12-08. Bought framing stock on 2-13-08 and gusset material. I decided to shorten the whole build 18" by removing a frame and also taking 18" off the back of the building jig, figured that probably would be a good idea too. The main headache has been the invention of metric plywood instead of good old dimensional plywood. When I laminated three 18 mm pieces for the stem and followed the cut lines on the frames to the letter I realized about 3 frames in, that there was a 3/16" gap the difference between 54 mm glued and 2 1/4" glued. So we progress, wiggle room for putty. It took me a solid 4 days to get the transom framed and the angled battens and chines completed. I found that if I built a jig for the miter jig on the table saw at 15 degree angle I could cut the angled dados for the chines and battens.
2-23-08: I have the transom C-clamped and the stem setting in place temporarily. Discovered that one should align frames from the transom not the stem especially if you shorten the boat. So I am discovering all these great tips that I wish I found before or during my reads. To check if your frames are accurate measure the distance from the extreme ends of the sheer angle to each other, then measure the plans and multiply the plans dimension times two, compare to your dimension. I will have to rebuild frame #8 because of some unforeseen movement during glue up. Most of the frames are within a 1/4" overall of the plans and that will probably come off during fairing. One annoying thing is that if your glue up angle between the bottom and the chine members is off even a fraction it will telescope to the end of the sheer and be out quite a bit. I found it easier to make templates out of hard board and 1/4" plywood than to oops a good and expensive piece of framing lumber. Then all the templates are available if you screw up, just cut a new one. I'll close with the line I read in your forum, "you can't screw something up sitting on the couch".
3-26-08: Finally got all the frames cut to size and mounted to the building form. Still have to screw the cross braces to the frames. Also need to construct a minor form to support frame 11. Sadly this is what happens to the perfectly good work shop when you get obsessed. The transom picture shows a 32" cut out for a single four stroke with a 20" length. I would have considered buying a frame kit for this puppy if one was available, but I know its' not. Soon the exciting part of radiusing the frames for the chines and sheers. I think I will take the advice of a Hunky Dory builder and use a 4 1/2" angle grinder with a sanding disc. Yeehaw! Lastly, if you're building an 1100# hull and put 800# of sandbags on the form, it won't move. The sheer weight alone of 1100# of frames, sand and my lower back says, "no". Will send pictures when it starts to look more like a boat.
4-6-08: I discovered that bending in the chines was a lot harder than I thought. I tried the solid stock, but Douglas Fir does not bend liberally and had to rethink the solution. I decided to use a trick I remembered from bent wood chairs and laminate the chines in with 7/16" strips of Douglas fir. The only thing I ran into was that the inner-most butt joint would not be backed at least until I rolled it over. So both chines almost in, have another lamination for the other side then on to sheers. A tip I found by accident, if you do both sides at the same time you reduce the strain on the stem and building form. I discovered that I needed to slow down on this part of the process because I was rushing the fairing and accuracy is more important than speed. The full build will probably take a year, could be done in shorter time, but I really want this puppy to last.
5-19-08: Chine and sheer were a pain, finished. A friend was watching me struggle with the chine and told me I should chop out frame #11 for the time being. I took his advice and it still was pretty tough. I ended up laminating three layers of 1/2" clear douglas fir with West system epoxy. After the chine and sheer were epoxied and screwed in to the frames I pieced back in frame #11. I started laying on planking earlier this week. I have been using West System for the laminating of planking and the bottom. I decided through a oversight on my part that the whole boat was going to get two layers of 6mm Meranti BS1088, I only ordered 6mm and had started the side planking when I realized it was supposed to be 9mm (3/8"). I also realized in lieu of gluing in butt blocks for the bottom I could straddle some 3/4"plywood between the battens and seam the bottom plywood at this point. I've also sent in some pictures of the build thus far.
5-27-08: The outer epoxy encapsulation has been completed. The putty areas are areas that I got a little aggressive with the Festool disc sander. I will "plug" this tool, it captures 99% of all the dust including fiberglass and it commercial quality. I ran this sander for 8 hours at a time. I have to drill the bow eye and start glassing the transom, yippee! The paint and primer are on order from, and will be Interlux Perfection with Interlux high build Primekote. I looked at the SystemThree through Glen-L, although cheaper, best results could only be obtained through spraying. Went with the roll and tip Interlux polyurethane paint.
6-2-08: Fiber-glassed the hull with glass cloth that came with the fiberglass kit and put eight coats of epoxy on the hull. Put a sealing coat, then the wet out cloth coat and three more coats. Wet sanded the hull and wiped it down with alcohol and put three more coats on it. Wet sanded it again and started on the bottom battens and chine guard. Plan to run a round over bit on trim router down the battens to ease the edges. The side fender/ spray guard and rub rail will applied after paint. The boss informed me she wanted those finished clear, will use Cetol to finish the bright work. I will bed the rub rail and spray guard in 3m 5200 adhesive in case they need to be redone in the future.
9-8-08: Have been working on the hard top and cabin interior.
3-22-09: My V-dory was completed last year. (See Customer Photos)

V-DORY / Adam Machala / Pomona Park, Florida / / 11-26-09: Started building "Beaujolais" in January 2009 and plan to have her completed December 2009.
6-23-10: Launched in January 2010. We live here in Pomona Park, Florida and would love to answer any questions anyone might have on building this boat. We are planning to attend the Gathering of Glen-L Boatbuilders in Tennessee this September. Love the boat & having a good time on the water again too! (See Customer Photos)

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