System Three - FAQ'S
Frequently Asked Questions

Issue: The System Three Resin Part A has turned hazy and has white material in the bottom of the jug.
Cause and solution:
The epoxy is crystallizing due to storage at temperatures 50°F and below. Immersing the closed container in hot tap water and heating to 120°F or above will bring the resin back to a clear state.

Issue: The epoxy isn't curing.
Cause and solution:
Resin and hardener were mixed at the wrong ratio. Resin was mixed with resin or hardener with hardener. Remove the uncured material thoroughly by scraping and solvent washing. Mix at proper ratio and reapply.

My epoxy resin is taking too long to cure. How can I speed it up?
The only way to speed the cure of our epoxy resin products, once they've been applied, is to heat the room or the area that your project is in. Every 18°F increase in temperature cuts the time it takes for the resin to cure in half.

Issue: The epoxy keeps going off in the pot.
Cause and solution:
The batch is too big or left too long in the pot. The hardener is too fast for the conditions. Use a smaller batch and get it out of the pot sooner. Change to a slower hardener.

Issue: The epoxy is still gummy.
Cause and solution:
The ratio was wrong. It was inadequately mixed. Not enough time has elapsed at the curing temperature. Make sure that the gumminess is not just the amine blush. Wait and see if the cure proceeds. Apply some heat if possible. If it is still gummy, then remove the uncured material thoroughly by scraping and solvent washing. Mix at proper ratio and reapply.

Issue: The epoxy is hard but it clogs the sandpaper.
Cause and solution:
Remove the amine blush. Wait a few more hours for further curing. Use a coarser grit paper or use wet/dry paper with water.

Can I color System Three epoxies?
Yes. The preferred method is with System Three paste pigments. If you can't find them at your dealer, or can't wait to order them from the factory, you can use up to 2% by weight of universal paint colorants from the paint or hardware store.

Issue: The top surface of the epoxy coating turned white.
Cause and solution:
It got wet from dew or rain before it cured. Apply heat and the whiteness will probably disappear. If not, remove by sanding.

Issue: The glue joints came apart.
Cause and solution:
Too much clamping pressure was used. No filler was used in the epoxy. The joints were stressed before sufficient curing. Use less pressure. Use some filler. Leave the part clamped together longer especially if it will be under stress when removed.

Issue: The fiberglass cloth didn't go clear.
Cause and solution:
The type of cloth is wrong. Buy the cloth from us or use an epoxy compatible cloth with a looser weave. Air may have been dispersed into the epoxy by excessive squeegeeing. Frothy squeegeed epoxy may have been used to wet out areas.

Can I add more hardener to accelerate the cure time?
No. The ratios are set so that all the chemicals will react and cure. More hardener or resin will result in uncured epoxy.

How do I clean up epoxy?
Cured epoxy must be removed by heat softening, paint stripper or sanding. Uncured epoxy can be removed with lacquer thinner.

Will System Three epoxies damage polystyrene or urethane foam?
No. Our coating and laminating resins are designed to go directly over solvent-sensitive substrates without any fear of softening or "melting" them.

Which epoxy for my canoe?
This is the common question asked by bright finish strip plank builders. The answer is that either SilverTip or Clear Coat Epoxy will do a fine job. Clear Coat Epoxy is thinner and will wet fiberglass faster than SilverTip Laminating Resin. On the other hand, it will take more coats to fill the weave. Both SilverTip Laminating Resin and Clear Coat Epoxy are free of amine blush. Some builders use Clear Coat epoxy for fiberglass application and SilverTip Laminating Resin for filling the weave.

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