Rigging Small Sailboats
Part 2 - How to Install the Rigging
GENERAL PRINCIPLES
Fittings for the running and standing rigging must be capable of resisting considerable strains. Therefore, it is always recommended that fittings be through bolted whenever possible, with the fitting being backed up with oversized solid blocking, especially on the underside of thin fiberglass or plywood surfaces such as decks. Use large flat washers under nuts, and bedding compound under the fittings to prevent leaks. Where it is not possible to use through bolts, then long screws of the largest possible shank diameter should be used, driven into solid material below. These rules apply to fittings wherever they may be required, whether on cabin tops, cockpit soles, decks, or centerboard trunks.
On wood hulls, finding solid material or providing solid backing blocks is usually a simple matter. On fiberglass hulls, backing blocks may have already been fitted when the hull was fabricated, or the hull may have been reinforced with extra laminate build-up in the area where fittings are to be located. If this hasn't been done in one form or the other, the builder must provide the solid backing material to receive the fastenings for the fitting. The wood blocks can be secured in place with a resin saturated piece of fiberglass cloth or mat.
Fastenings in all cases are preferably a non-corrosive type, which usually means stainless steel, bronze, or at least hot dipped galvanized. Do NOT, however, use hot dipped galvanized fastenings with, for instance, bronze fittings, as the two metals are dissimilar and corrosion will dissipate the fastener (at least in salt water). A good rule-of-thumb is to use the same type material in the fastenings as is used in the fitting, except that stainless steel can be used to fasten into aluminum.
INSTALLING CHAINPLATES
Chainplates may be located on the outside of the hull, usually along the gunwale or hull side rail. For a neater appearance, however, it is more common to have them located inside the hull, projecting through the deck or cabin top. When they are located inside, this usually means that they must be mounted in position prior to the completion of the hull, and especially before the decking is applied (see Fig. 7-1). The position of the chainplates should be determined by the designer or manufacturer of the boat. This position will usually be in conjunction with a main strength member such as the hull sides, structural bulkhead, or other longitudinal framing member. As with other fittings, solid backing blocks, or extra reinforcing of the hull on fiberglass boats, should be provided for mounting the chainplates.
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FIG. 7-1 - If building a boat and through-deck chainplates are called for, they should be installed and bolted in place before the deck is applied. The photo shows the chainplates bolted in position on each side, protruding far enough above the deck line to receive the turnbuckle or other stay hardware. (Glen-L 10 is shown) |
Chainplates can be made of any strong metal as long as it is non-corrosive. However, it is common to purchase ready made chainplates which are usually made from stainless steel strap with holes usually drilled in each end. If in doubt about which size chainplate to use, always pick one that is larger and as long as practicable. Always bolt the chainplate in position with at least two bolts per unit. Be sure to let the top end of the chainplate extend far enough above the deck or cabin top to allow the shrouds to be attached. Where chainplates protrude through the deck or cabin top, the hole should be sealed in a water proof mastic. Special covers are available which match the ready-made chainplates to cover the hole and "dress up" the area where the chainplates pass through.
If in doubt about the location of the chainplates, remember that they are located as far outboard as possible, as far as strengthening the mast is concerned. They must not, however, interfere with sail handling; especially when a jib is used. Also, if a single shroud on each side is used, the chainplates are usually located a little aft of the mast. When upper and lower shrouds are used, the chainplate for the upper shroud is usually directly to the side of the mast. The chainplates for the lower shrouds are then located a slight distance forward or aft of this chainplate. When more than one chainplate is required per side, they should be separated by a distance of at least several inches in order to transfer the strains to the hull.
INSTALLING DECK FITTINGS
Deck fittings such as blocks, cleats, winches, tracks, and related items should be installed with bolts or long screws as previously noted. Fastenings are usually not provided with the deck fittings when purchased because the lengths will vary from boat to boat.
In installing fittings such as for the mainsheet, it is advisable to mock-up the arrangement before fastening anything permanently in position, especially if you are not familiar with the configuration, or are figuring out your own arrangement. Tape the fittings in position and check to see that all fittings are in the proper position and plane of reference for smooth operation. It would be mighty embarrassing to find that a cam cleat, for example, was fastened in backwards! While the designer will probably note the positions of the various fittings, the best locations for the fittings can be determined. Also check the position of the various jam cleats which will be used to belay the various sheets and halyards. Obviously these jam cleats must have a "fair lead" to the line and be in a position so the line will stay secure. Always locate jam cleats so the pull of the line is at right angles to the line of the fastenings; not in line with them which will tend to pull the cleat out.
If your rig has a jib, care must be taken in locating the jib sheet lead points; the position where the lines controlling the trim of the jib intersects with the hull. Designers use a formula for determining these positions and it has been noted previously and in Fig. 5-16. The builder can also use this formula, but because conditions of use, the sails, and boats in general vary, the best method for determining jib sheet leads is by actually sailing the boat and pinpointing the lead position while using the jib. Admittedly, this may seem tedious and inconvenient, but on the smaller boats with jibs up to about 50 square feet, it is really not too much effort.
With either method, once the correct point is determined, a fixed or adjustable lead fitting can be installed. On small boats, a fixed lead need consist of nothing more than a fairlead fastened to the deck on each side for each jib sheet. On larger boats, or where more efficiency is desired, a track can be used on either side with a sliding fairlead. This method allows for variable trimming of the sheet when underway, which is desirable when the conditions of sailing change. This track for the jib would be located so the mid-length of the track is positioned at the point found to be most efficient. The track used for the jib is usually at least 12" long. On larger boats that use a Genoa, a separate track is provided for this sail, each side of the boat. The lead point for the Genoa can be found by the trial-and-error method, but because of the size of the sail, this is difficult, to say the least. For this reason, it is better to use the formula provided to determine the lead point for the Genoa, and then use a longer length of track for the fairlead slide so that variations are possible. In most cases the Genoa track is located fairly parallel along the sheer rail as far outboard as practical. Track stops must be provided for all jib and Genoa tracks at the ends so the slides will not come off when underway.
When winches are required for handling sheets and halyards, their position must be carefully determined. Halyard winches are generally fastened to the mast, but are really not considered necessary equipment on the size boats being considered here. This leaves winches which are used for the jib or Genoa sheets. Here again the position of the winches will usually be noted by the designer, but as stated previously, this will be an approximation, and the exact position for the winches is best determined in use once the sheet lead points are known, or at least mocked-up.
In locating winches, several things must be considered. First, the winch must be near at hand and convenient to use. If it has a handle, clearance must be allowed for a full circle swing. Winches may be located on deck, but it is common to raise them up on blocking in order to clear cockpit coamings. If the winch is blocked up, this blocking should be angled so the lead of the sheet from the track is fairly horizontal to the winch. A cleat is always used to secure the sheet after taking turns around the winch. These cleats are preferably in a horizontal plane with the winch as well.
When installing "outboard" rudders on the transom, gudgeons and pintles, as described in the previous chapter, are used. Sometimes inboard rudders are used, and these are usually detailed on the plans by the designer. With "outboard" rudders, most commonly the pintles are bolted to the rudder. The gudgeons are then screwed or bolted to the transom. Most boats use a set of two each, and these should be spaced as far apart as possible to distribute the strain on the rudder. Install a rudder stop if there appears to be any tendency for the rudder to float up and out of the gudgeons. Any number of types of rudder stops are available, some of which may be integral with the rudder fittings. Another method which can be used but is not very seaman-like is to bend the pintles with pliers so they fit tighter in the gudgeons.
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FIG. 7-2 through 7-5 - Two types of mast steps are shown for use with aluminum spars. The first pivots; the aft corner of the mast at the base is radiused to allow clearance when pivoting. The exploded view shows an internal stiffener used on light masts to provide bearing for the bolt. The second type of step is fixed to the deck and the mast sets onto it. It is held in position by the stays. |
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Installing the mast step may not require any fittings if the mast is to be stepped through the deck and provisions have been made in the hull structure. However, with masts that are to be stepped on the deck or cabin top, a means of securing the mast is required, and this is usually by the mast step fitting such as shown by Figs. 7-2, 7-4, and 7-5. As noted previously, several types of steps are available. Depending on the design, reinforcing below the mast step may be required, such as a mast stanchion or large deck beam. The reason for this extra support is that the mast is in direct compression onto the boat and the considerable strain must be transferred throughout as large an area of the structure as possible. So it is important that the mast step be located directly over these strength members and rigidly mounted. Mast steps are preferably through bolted in any case.
INSTALLING FITTINGS
As noted previously, small boat spars are made of wood or aluminum. Wood spars may be either solid or hollow, while aluminum spars are hollow. Fittings on wood spars are usually screwed with wood screws or through bolted. If through bolted, the bolts should pass through solid wood blocking in hollow spars. Fittings on aluminum spars can be bolted, but the number of through bolts in an aluminum spar should be kept to a minimum, and the bolts should never be tightened to a point that will collapse the spar. Nuts on through bolts should be locked with lock washers or self-locking nuts to prevent the nut from working free. Another method to lock the nut is to cut off the end of the bolt just above the nut and, with a center punch, drive the punch hard into the center of the end of the bolt. This will spread out the metal in the bolt and the nut as well, jamming them in position. Most fittings on aluminum spars are secured with self-threading sheet metal screws that should be of stainless steel. In fact, all fastenings through the aluminum should be stainless steel to prevent corrosion of the spar that can occur when dissimilar metals are in contact in marine conditions. Lubricate sheet metal screws with oil before driving. It is possible to use rivets to fasten parts to the aluminum spars, especially with "pop rivets" if you have the tool. These can be used on items such as tracks or flat base fittings, but in any case the rivets should be stainless steel or aluminum, and the hole of the rivet filled with epoxy cement filler. If using aluminum pop rivets, use plenty because they are not as strong as the stainless steel type. Where plastic fittings are used, such as fairleads, these can be secured with epoxy glue. When drilling for bolts in either wood or aluminum, the hole should not be a sloppy fit, but should be snug. Screw holes for wood screws must also be of the correct size, and lead holes for the self-threading screws in aluminum spars must be of the correct size required for the screw, which is always less than the size of the screw.
 FIG. 8-1 - A Nylon fairlead, such as used for the exit point of internal halyards, is simple to install. Just drill a hole of the right size in the mast and use a two-part epoxy adhesive to secure the fitting in position. |
Where internal halyards are required, it is best to lead wires through the mast before outfitting so the halyards can be attached to these for later reeving. On hollow wood masts, it is easiest to do this before assembling the mast. The halyards, when run internally, exit the mast near the base. The exit point must be fitted with some type of fairlead. This may consist of merely a hole with a plastic fairlead fitting such as shown in Fig. 8-1 to prevent chafing the halyard, or can be the more elaborate coaming pulley or sheave box arrangement. In any case, one exit is required for each halyard, and it is convenient to locate the exit for the mainsail halyard on the aft or port side of the mast, and the jib halyard exit on the forward or starboard side of the mast to avoid confusion. Some skippers use different colored lines for halyards to keep them separated. If using wire rope for the halyards, all sheaves must be for use with wire rope, and a fairlead without a sheave should preferably not be used. It is possible to bring the halyards through the mast base where they can be concealed in the cabin, or in the forward cuddy below decks space. This arrangement does have merits especially with regard to clutter. One problem with the arrangement, however, is that there is no good way of keeping water from entering the hull through the holes required, which is especially critical on cabin boats.
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 8-2 |
 8-4 (left) 8-5 (right) FIG. 8-2 through 8-5 - Masthead fittings used on aluminum masts. Figs. 8-2 and 8-3 are similar, but Fig. 8-2 shows the external halyard carried up one side and down the other utilizing two sheaves at the masthead. Fig. 8-4 shows the exploded assembly of Fig. 8-3, which uses the same halyard arrangement. Optionally, the halyard could be run internally through a hole in the fitting and using a fairlead at the mast base for the exit point. The halyard would then lead only over one sheave. This fitting is intended for cat or jibhead rigs as there are no provisions made for attaching the stays. For use with masthead rigs, something like Fig. 8-5 is used. The halyards run internally through a slot in the cap part of the fitting. The tang bolt may pass through the fitting or just below it, depending on the size of the fitting. |
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With aluminum spars, most of the other fittings, such as the masthead fitting, or boom gooseneck fittings are made up of aluminum castings which fit the spar extrusion (see Figs. 8-2, 8-3, 8-4, and 8-5). Once the lengths of the spars are known, these fittings are inserted in position and screwed or riveted in place. Aluminum spars are easily cut with a hacksaw if oversize, and rough edges filed clean. When aluminum is used for the boom, it is a simple matter to have roller reefing, as the roller reefing gooseneck can be incorporated in the hollow extrusion. When using aluminum castings for aluminum spars, it is often necessary to file off rough edges. This is normal, and because of the relative softness of the metal, takes little effort. Also, a little oil or wax will make the fittings slip into the extrusion more easily. Fittings on wood spars are fastened with wood screws or through bolted. Goosenecks for wood booms usually have tang or strap-like members into which the boom fits. These tangs can usually be spread apart somewhat to suit the thickness of the boom. The gooseneck is bolted through the boom as are boom bails where required.
Masthead fittings should be detailed by the designer of boats with wood masts, and the larger the boat, the more elaborate the fitting. On simple mastheads which have only one halyard, all that is required is a sheave installed in a groove at the top of the mast. A similar sheave may be used at the clew outhaul on the boom. These sheaves use a pin axle driven through a hole, and the ends are peened (flattened) over to keep it in position. Sheaves are usually synthetic plastic material or metal where wire rope is used.
BOLT ROPE GROOVES
On spars which use a groove for the bolt rope of the sail, there must be a means by which the bolt rope can enter the groove. On wood spars, an area must be relieved using the method described later, or by the directions in the plans provided with the boat, if you are building your own boat. On aluminum spars which use a groove, a portion of the mast must be filed away with a coarse file (see Figs. 8-6 and 8-7). Do not cut away the groove excessively, and make sure all rough edges are smooth to prevent wear on the sail. A small fine file or rotary grinder plus emery cloth will do the job. Look at the end of the mast to determine the amount to remove. The length and position of the cutaway areas should be provided by the designer of the boat, or by the spar supplier. If the position or length required is not given, it can be determined by using the sail as a guide. Hold the sail so the top or head is 6" to 8" below the top of the mast, and stretch the bolt rope tightly along the mast. Mark the position where the tack of the sail falls along the mast, and relieve an area 5" to 12" above the tack, both for entry of the bolt rope and the gooseneck slide fitting. Remember that the relieved portion must be above the gooseneck when the gooseneck is positioned when pulled down by the downhaul (see Fig. 3-15).
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 8-7 |
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FIG. 8-6 & 8-7 - Goosenecks used with grooved aluminum spars must be relieved in order to fit the gooseneck into the groove. Although a wood boom is shown, it could be of aluminum also. The relieved portion is also required for the bolt rope of the sail so the relieved area must be carefully determined. When the boom is pulled down by the downhaul, it cannot be in the relieved area; it must be below it as shown by Fig. 3-15. |
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POSITIONING STANDING RIGGING ON MAST
The approximate locations for the attachment points for all the stays and shrouds must be ascertained, either from the plans, or from the spar manufacturer. If the shrouds and stays have already been purchased, this means the attachment points must be located to suit. Otherwise, the builder must determine the lengths required directly from the work. In this case, strings can be attached to the mast, the mast erected temporarily in position, and the lengths determined with the strings. If the stays and shrouds are already purchased, they must be taped or clamped in approximate position on the mast, and the mast temporarily erected. If the stays or shrouds have turnbuckles, these should be set at the midpoint. If the stays and shrouds are long or short in this position, determine the distance and merely shift them along the mast to suit. On boats which use both upper and lower shrouds, first determine the position of the lower shrouds in this manner. The position of the lower shrouds on the mast is also the point of the spreader fitting because these fittings are usually incorporated (see Figs. 8-8, 8-9, and 8-10).
 8-8  8-9  8-10 |
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FIGS. 8-8 through 8-10 - Two types of spreaders used on aluminum spars are shown. Either type does not pass through the spar. Those shown in Figs. 8-8 and 8-10 can be used on wood masts also. Usually there is a built-in "rake" or angle to the fitting for the spreaders. The lengths of the spreaders can be varied by varying the length of the tubes. That shown in Fig. 8-9 is a type used with diamond stays and does not have any rake built in. Tension is varied in the stay by adjusting the spreader tips in or out. |
When spreaders are used, these must be positioned before fixing the upper shrouds to the mast. Often the position of the spreaders is given "approximate only" by the designer. On hollow wood spars, there should be a length of solid blocking in the mast to allow the spreaders to be shifted up and down the mast several inches as required to suit the length of the stays. On aluminum spars, the spreaders may attach to fittings that screw fasten to the side of the mast, or the spreader fitting may be bolted through the mast. The spreader fittings must align with each other, on each side of the mast, so the force is equalized (see Fig. 8-11). Don't mount one slightly off center from the opposite one. If the fitting is through bolted and an oval mast section is being used, be sure to drill the hole at the widest cross sectional dimension of the spar and at right angles to the longitudinal centerline of the mast cross section. Use a tape measure clipped at the bolt rope groove and wrapped around the girth of the mast to determine the correct point on each side. Then drill the hole from the outside on each side in order to insure that the spreader bolt will align correctly in the mast and be at right angles to the centerline of the boat.
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FIG. 8-1 I - Spreaders should not be "cocked" or canted from each other. They should be exactly opposite each other to counteract equally the forces imparted to them. When spreaders are raked, ideally Angle "A" should be equal to Angle "B", while Angle "C" and Angle "D" must be equal.Some spreaders are mounted so they are horizontal with the waterline. Other spreader fittings are "raked" so the angle formed along the upper shrouds by the spreaders is practically equal (see Fig. 8-11'b'). If the spreader fittings you have are raked, be sure that the rake goes UPWARDS. If the spreaders prove to be too long, most often they can be trimmed off to the desired dimension. Note however, that the dimension of the spreaders out from the mast should be the same on both sides.
 FIG. 9-1 - Putting the mast in position is called "stepping the mast". With the pivoting mast step shown in this boat, the mast is placed in the step with one person pulling forward with the forestay or jib halyard, and a second person pushing forward and steadying the mast. |
STEPPING THE MAST
Stepping the mast means putting the mast on the boat so it can receive the sails. Fig. 9-1 shows a mast being stepped on a small catamaran. Since the first time you will step the mast will probably be on land, the first thing to do is make sure there are no overhead obstructions in the way, ESPECIALLY ELECTRICAL WIRES! Also, the mast stepping arrangement must be in place. On boats with wood spars, there must be a way for any water that may settle in the mast step (either from rain coming down the inside of the spar or from water on deck) to drain out, or rot will be promoted. With aluminum spars, the same applies, but not for the same reason. While stainless steel and aluminum are fairly compatible, there is still some corrosive action between the two in saltwater conditions, and because the fastenings at the mast base area will probably be stainless steel, corrosion could occur if salt water were allowed to remain between the two metals.
If the mast is of the aluminum pivoting type, a stiffener is often used in the base to provide extra bearing for the pivot bolt. With pivoting masts, it may be necessary to radius the bottom corners of the spar to allow it to pivot into position. When wood masts are used in conjunction with a pivoting mast step, the mast should not bear directly on the deck or cabin top, but should be supported by the large bolt in the mast step fitting, thereby preventing rot by water staying in the step. To raise a mast with a pivoting mast step, insert the bolt through the mast in the step, connect the shrouds to the chainplates initially if possible, have one person aft and under the mast pushing up forward, and have another person pulling directly ahead with the forestay or jib halyard.
Most masts are stepped with some degree of "rake", or angle from vertical when viewed in profile. This rake may be built into the boat, but usually the builder must align the mast to the proper rake. With masts that step onto the keel or through the deck, wedges of wood can be used at the hole through the deck to maintain the angle along with the tension of the stays. On masts stepped on deck or on the cabin top, the rake of the mast must be maintained by stay adjustment. Mast rake is usually noted in inches per length of mast, and should be maintained per the designer's specifications for proper performance, at least initially. One method of determining the rake is to affix a line to the top of the mast with a plumb bob attached to the lower end. The boat must be leveled first. The line should be the length of the mast from the masthead to the base point from which the rake is measured. The rake is then measured from one side of the mast to the plumb bob line. When the correct distance is obtained, the stays can be set up. To keep the plumb bob steady, it can be dropped in a container of water. Another method for determining mast rake is to make up a shim or template equal to the amount of rake. Then use a builder's level held vertically and tilt the mast so that one side aligns with the shim held between the level and the mast. Again, the boat must first be leveled.
 FIG. 9-2-How NOT to adjust tension on stays. Tension should be set up so that the spar is free of curves or bends when sighting up along the length. |
SETTING UP THE STANDING RIGGING
When the rake has been determined, the standing rigging can be set up. If your boat has diamond stays or jumper stays, these should be installed and set up taut before the mast is stepped. It is difficult if not impossible to state what the tension on stays should be. The best guide is common sense, at least in the beginning. Don't set the stays up so taut that the mast resembles any of the examples shown in Fig. 9-2. Stays should not be set so tight that they "sing" when plucked by hand, or cause the mast to bend. Diamond and jumper stays should be set up very tight, while the lower shrouds are usually set up "hand tight" only. Use the forestay to maintain the mast rake, and the backstay or shrouds (if no backstay is used) to put tension on the forestay. The forestay should also be very tight, especially if a jib is used. Where upper and lower shrouds are used, the upper shrouds usually are set up slightly tighter than the lower shrouds. On simple three stay rigs using stay adjusters on the shroud, use the forestay turnbuckle to put tension on the rig. When setting up your rigging, make sure the boat is level and that there is little wind so the mast will not exert tension of its own. Also, shroud tension should be equal on each side, even though the shrouds to windward when sailing on a tack will be taut, while those to leeward will be slack.
Once the tension is set, the turnbuckles should be locked in position. If stay adjusters are used on the shrouds, these can be set and kept in this position at all times. The turnbuckle on the forestay is then used to put tension in both the forestay and shrouds.
SETTING UP THE RUNNING RIGGING
Having mocked up the deck fittings and hardware once and fastened them in position, there is little more required to set up the running rigging. The lines used for the various sheets should be cut to the correct lengths and the ends "whipped." The lengths of the sheets should be determined when the boom or the jib is at the maximum point of travel. For the boom, it should be swung outboard so it is almost at 90 degrees to the hull centerline. The jib sheets should be long enough so it can be "tacked" or pulled across the boat from side to side without the slack side of the jib sheet being pulled free from the jib sheet creating device or fitting. WHIPPING the ends of lines means fixing them so they will not fray or unwind along the braids. The traditional method of whipping is shown in numerous books on "marlinspike seamanship," but on small boats using synthetic lines, an easier way is to use a liquid compound made especially to "seal" the end of the line. Another "makeshift" way to do the job quickly is to merely light a match and let the flame "melt" the strands together if the material is synthetic. As noted previously, it is a good idea to make a good-sized knot in the running end of sheets to prevent them from running out the blocks if they should get away from the crew. In reeving the lines through the various blocks, start with the "dead" end of the line first and reeve to the working or running end. The dead end of a line is best fitted with a spliced eye or tied in a good knot at the fitting being attached. Wire rope halyards should be fitted with an eye to a rope at the running end, or spliced directly to the rope line. Use shackles or Brummel hooks to attach the halyards to the sails. Check all running rigging to see that all lines operate smoothly, that the sails will raise and lower without incident, and that there is a place for all lines to lead without confusion. If the sail tends to bind in the mast groove, a little paraffin will usually smooth things out. Check at all possible points for chafe of both the sails and all lines, and if there are any points which could cause undue wear, they should be rectified. Particular points to check are spreader tips, turnbuckles in way of jib sheets, and fittings along the spar in way of halyards. Go through the rigging process several times until you have it down to a "system". By this time you will know all the parts by name and what they do.
HELM BALANCE AS IT RELATES TO RIGGING
Sailboat balance simply means whether a boat has a "weather" or a "lee" helm. A boat with a "weather" helm tends to head into the wind if the tiller is released, eventually coming to a complete halt when the bow faces directly into the wind (discounting drift). A boat with a "lee" helm tends to bear away from the wind if the tiller is released, and ultimately causing the boat to go in the direction the wind is blowing. When sailing on courses more or less into the direction of the wind, balance is important. A boat with too much lee helm could be dangerous if the tiller was released, as a capsize might occur. A boat with too much weather helm, however, would only tend to head into the wind too quickly. The problem with too much weather helm is that it requires too much effort to steer the boat thereby wearing out the helmsman, plus it cuts down on the speed of the boat. So the ideal balance is when very little effort is required on the tiller to keep the boat on course AND when the tiller is released, the boat will head gently into the wind. A theoretical discussion of balance would include the relation between the Center of Effort (CE) of the sails, and the Center of Lateral Resistance (CLR) of the hull, which is not within the scope of this book. All the average sailor wants to know is how to correct his boat so it has the proper balance, and that's what will be discussed here.
The listing below gives many options that can be tried in order to arrive at a balanced helm. Not all items listed are practical for all boats. Obviously it is best to start with the easy things first in the hopes that these will do the trick. Also, it is desirable to use a combination of these changes in minute degrees until the proper balance is achieved. Note that balance wilI change with many factors. For example, a boat with good balance in light winds might develop a strong weather helm in heavy winds. This would cause the boat to turn quickly into the wind if the tiller is released, which is not a bad quality if not pronounced. The point is that balance is a dynamic problem that can be constantly changing depending on crew loading, wind conditions, and with the sails used. So if you think you need to change the balance, first consider your sailing conditions before making drastic modifications. Remember, it is always desirable to have at least a little weather helm under all conditions. Here are the changes that can be made:
| TO DECREASE WEATHER HELM: 1. Step mast farther forward 2. Decrease rake of mast 3. Mount centerboard farther aft 4. Lift centerboard up slightly when sailing to windward 5. Move crew weight farther aft 6. Sail boat more upright 7. Increase size of jib 8. Decrease size of mainsail 9. Locate jib farther forward 10. Use mainsail with less fullness of shape |
TO INCREASE WEATHER HELM: 1. Step mast farther aft 2. Increase rake of mast 3. Mount centerboard farther forward 4. Drop centerboard to full down position when sailing to windward 5. Move crew weight farther forward 6. Sail boat at greater angle of heel 7. Decrease size of jib 8. Increase size of mainsail 9. Locate jib farther aft 10. Use fuller shaped mainsail shape |
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